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This week, we visit more special places which are not found in maps or guide books. We will travel with various “masters” who will take us to these secret spots. For our next unique trip, we will go to four secret hot springs in Miyagi and Akita. All of them are surrounded by beautiful nature. Our guide this time is Yamada Beniko, a hot spring expert. She has visited over 3,500 hot springs and has even published a book on spas. Let’s begin in Furukawa Station in Miyagi prefecture. From here, hop on a rental car to Naruko Hot Spring Country. Our first destination of this trip is Onikobe Hot Spring. On the way to this scenic hot spring, make a quick stopover at Benten Geyser, one of Japan’s biggest geysers. Then, head to Hotel Houunkaku which has an outdoor bath. The hotel makes its own bath towels, which are not as thick as normal bath towels. These towels can be rented for 200 yen. The spacious outdoor bath is a short walk away from the hotel. A bit further away from the hotel building is a “wild bath”, which is located at the basin of a waterfall. The source of this particular hot spring is the top of a waterfall called Jigokudani. The water is 90 degrees Celsius at the top, but as it gushes down, it is mixed with the cool water of the falls, thus creating a perfect temperature at the basin. The best time to enjoy this natural hot spring is between May and October.
We next go to Akinomiya Hot Spring Country in Akita. The oldest hot spring in Akita prefecture, it was discovered during the Nara period by a monk named Gyoki. Hot spring water spouts out from various places of the riverbed here. Visitors come in search of these spots at the river and dig out the soil to create foot baths or full baths. This rustic experience is truly unique. There is a restaurant located by the river which delivers ramen to customers at the river itself. If you wish, you can go to the restaurant to try some of its delicious ramen. The soup, which is made of chicken stock, is fragrant. And the ramen costs only 400 yen (S$6.50)!
The third hot spring is Doroyu Hot Spring. This secret hot spring is located at a secluded spot in the mountains, within the Okuyama Ryokan. Spacious and nostalgic, the hotel features Japanese-style rooms. You can spend the night here. The hotel’s Doroyu Hot Spring comprises spring water from various nearby spring sources, creating a unique hot spring with various qualities. The hotel has two outdoor baths, each with its own unique charm. The spacious outdoor bath, for example, is a famous mud bath. You will notice hand prints on the rocks around it. What guests would do is grab the mud from the bottom of the bath, spread it on their body and then leave their hand prints on the rocks. This mud is believed to leave your skin feeling silky smooth.
After your bath, it is time to feast on some charming country dishes made from seasonal produce from the area. Dinner is served in the hotel’s grand hall and includes items like mukidake mushrooms, taro hot pot, steamed egg with pumpkin and mizu.
The next morning, begin your day with a refreshing bath at a secret hot spring called Tengu Bath. The mud bath here feels like fresh cream enveloping your body. After breakfast, head to the Kawarage Jigoku (hell) Hot Spring. Kawarage Jigoku is one of Japan's three sacred grounds, along with Aomori's Mount Osore and Toyama's Mount Tate. As you walk along a desolate terrain first towards the hot spring, you will find yourself surrounded by sulphuric gas fuming from the rocks. You will notice the landscape slowly changing and you will need to hike through a forest next. Watch out for bears along the way. It may be useful to bring along some bells to keep them away. They serve to warn the bears of your presence and they will then move away from the path.
Once you reach Kawarage Ooyutaki Hot Spring, you will actually realise that it is actually a magnificent waterfall. Hot water from Kawarage Jigoku is mixed with cool stream water and gushes down 20 metres, creating a beautiful hot spring waterfall. The secret hot spring at the basin of the waterfall is usually of the perfect temperature. One can smell the sulphur in the spring water. Do remember to hold on to the rocks so you won’t slip, especially since the water pressure is pretty strong and powerful. This seasonal hot spring can only be enjoyed in summer.
For our next journey of discovery, we will visit various terrace fields, accompanied by an expert. Terrace fields are farming fields on mountain slopes, and Japan has many terrace fields located in the countryside. Our tour guide this time is renowned photographer Aoyagi Kenji. He has travelled around the globe in search of amazing terrace fields and has been taking beautiful photos of these fields for 20 years. We will visit three breathtaking terrace fields in Saga and Nagasaki.
From Ouchi Station in Saga prefecture, travel by bus for 15 minutes to a terrace field exchange market. From the gathering square, you will have to walk for about four kilometers to the Oohira Observation Deck. It will take you about an hour to reach your destination. From the observation deck, you can admire the gorgeous view of the Warabino Terrace Fields of Mount Hachiman-dake. Located 763 metres above sea level, the area is covered with 1,050 fields. Then, head to another interesting spot, the Ishitsumi Terrace Fields, with its beautiful stone walls. Such terrace fields can only be found in West Japan. Stone masonry began 85 years ago in the Warabino Terrace Fields. It took 10 years to complete the construction of these fields. The tallest terrace field stone wall in Japan boasts a height of 8.6 metres. After looking at the stone walls, go to the farmer's market, where you can buy some sushi made with rice from the Warabino Terrace Fields. It is stuffed with stewed local carrots, burdock, and mushrooms.
Next, take a train from Ouchi to Karatsu and then hop on a bus to Yobuko. It takes 30 minutes to reach the port town located in the northern area of Saga. Drop by Asaichi-dori, one of the three largest morning markets in Japan. The market is lined with stalls selling various types of fresh local seafood. The squids here are famous so for lunch, order the popular Squid Sashimi Set. It features fresh Yokubo squid grown in the nearby sea and also includes squid dumplings and squid leg tempura.
After this, head to yet another terrace field located in Genkai-cho, a northwestern town in Saga. The Hamanoura Terrace Fields extend towards to the sea, and the multiple layers add up to a total of 283 fields. When winds blow across the fields, the rice fields become layers of large fluffy carpets. The magnificent view is truly nature's work of art. Another highlight of this terrace field area is the Lovers’ Sacred Ground. It was established four years ago and is a popular spot for couples to hold their wedding ceremony.
The last destination of this trip is a terrace field which also faces the sea. However, to reach this particular terrace field, one needs to cross the prefectural border to Fukushima in Nagasaki prefecture. Do note that you will have to transfer buses to reach your destination. The Doya Terrace Fields boast about 400 fields layered on gentle slopes. The best time to view these terrace fields is during sunset. If you have some time before sunset, you can wait it out at the Baba Kitchen. The cafe sells some delicious manjus and dangos. Order the nostalgic Stone Wall Dango, which features purple sweet potatoes. Later, enjoy the magnificent view of the terrace fields while the sun sets. On a clear day, the magnificent view of the fields bathed in gorgeous tones will take your breath away. |
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