This week, we explore the hidden sights of Japan by travelling along small local railway lines. Each line is full of surprises, with stations along the line each offering a unique experience.
The first route begins along the Gomen-Nahari line in Shikoku’s Kochi Prefecture. There are 20 stations along the 42.7km railway line, where you can enjoy memories of the Showa-era and nostalgic sights of Kochi. Every street and station along the line have been carefully planned and created. Takashi Yanase – the famous cartoonist behind “Anpanman” – has created different “characters” or mascots for the various stations along the Gomen-Nahari line. So, for example, you will meet Gomen Ekio-kun at Gomen Station, Akaoka Ekin-san at Akaoka Station, Yasuda Ayu-kun at Yasuda Station, and Nahariko-chan at Nahari Station.
From Gomen Station, take the train to your first destination, Akaoka-cho, which is 12 minutes away. As you explore the streets of the town - which flourished during the Edo era - visit the Ekingura, which was opened three years ago. As it is dark inside the building, do take a lantern along with you. Here you will find paintings by Ekin - a painter in the Edo era, who was expelled from Tokyo for counterfeiting. He later settled in Akaoka and resumed painting here, recreating many theatrical scenes with his paintings. The Ekin Festival, which celebrates Ekin’s paintings, remains a tradition that continues in Akaoka to this very day.
Continue your journey further east on the Gomen-Nahari line. Alight at Yasu Station, and roam around the area and its nice harbour, which was created in 1653 during the Edo era as a small inlet. Here, you will also see a unique sight - a movable bridge which allows the road to incline. This bridge can open up to let boats pass through. The sight of the bridge soaring to the sky is definitely awe-inspiring.
Head back to Yasu Station and hop on a special open-air train that runs twice a day along the coastline. Enjoy breathtaking views of the sea as the train travels further east. Get off at the biggest city on the line - Aki City. You can have lunch at the Koen-jaya teahouse, which serves Aki City’s famous delicacy, Kame Agechirimen-don. It is made from locally-harvested milt and is delicious. Yuzu, which is abundantly grown in Aki City, is one of the ingredients in this dish. Stay at an inn which lies deep in the mountains in Nyugauchi District. Forty minutes from Aki City by bus, it is a family-run farm stay called Senshun. The rooms offer a great view and have a nice ambience. The inn provides two meals a day and costs 6500 yen (S$98) a night. Take a car to the nearby Komadori hot spring, which lies in the midst of lush greenery. The hot clear water, which is rich in sulphur, soothes the travel-worn spirit. The inn’s dinner features food which is home-grown and freshly picked from the owner’s own fields. This inn prides itself for its rustic country-style sushi. Ingredients include self-harvested bamboo shoots, ginger and freshwater fish. There is also home-grown yuzu and local salmon slowly boiled to perfection. The next morning, after checking out, make your way back to Aki Station and continue the journey on the Gomen-Nahari line. The next stop is Yasuda-cho, in the centre of which the Yasuda River flows. The cultural centre near the station rents out bicycles for free. So cycle your way to the Yasuda River, which is surrounded by nature. One of the best fresh water streams in Japan, it has won the National Grand Prix twice for its smelt. You’ll be surprised to know that there is a cinema located near the river. Opened in 1955, the cinema still operates on an irregular basis. The wall is covered with posters of classic movies it once screened. Next, travel by train to the end of the Gomen-Nahari route. From Murotomisaki onwards, travel by foot, and end your trip by enjoying the famous view of the wide blue sea.
The next adventure along local railway lines takes us to Shimane Prefecture. Discover the hidden views found in the Sanyin area by taking the Kisuki Line, which weaves through the mountains of Chugoku District and the mythic countryside. The Kisuki Line starts at Shinji Station and ends at Bingo Ochiai Station in Hiroshima. The one-carriage train departs from Platform 3 of Shinji Station. Thirty-five minutes later, you will reach Kisuki Station. Explore the area and visit the Hii Shrine, where the Kisuki legend of the Eight-Forked Serpent originated. Another unique sight worth seeing is a massive pine tree which is almost 450 years old. Houses have been built around the tree, and as it is still growing, the tree grows through two houses! Head back to Kisuki Station and take the local tram, Okuizumo-orochi, which comprises a normal carriage and a tram carriage. Enjoy the breeze and view as the tram makes its way to the highlands of Chugoku. Stop at Kamedake Station, where there is a soba (noodle) restaurant, which is in fact run by the stationmaster! Try Izumo’s famous dish, warisoba, which is served in a unique bowl made up of three levels. It is an interesting and delicious treat indeed. After this, make your way by bus to the Tamamine Lodge, which lies deep in the embrace of Mt Tamamine. The rooms are spacious and reasonable. Try the inn’s open-air bath, while enjoying the view of the mountains and the sunset. For dinner, tuck into a delicious kaiseki meal made from seasonal ingredients. Enjoy the salted smelt from the fresh waters of the mountains and locally farmed Nita beef steak. For breakfast the next day, try the delicious rice balls made from locally-grown Nita rice.
From Kamedake Station, take the normal train carriage to the next stop along Kisuki Line - Izumo-Yokota Station. Okuizumo is Japan’s biggest producer of handmade abacuses, and here you can see all kinds of abacuses displayed, including Japan’s longest abacus, boasting 309 columns. You can also see an abacus maker at work. Have lunch at one of the rare Western restaurants in Okuizumo, located at the end of a small path. Its chef worked in a Tokyo restaurant for over 40 years. Try the restaurant’s famous dish - omelette rice with generous demi-glace sauce.
Head back to the station to continue your train journey and alight at Izumo-Sakane Station. Here, take a sip of its famous spring water, which claims to prolong your life. Another interesting sight here is the station’s switchback system, which enables the train to climb the steep mountain face. The train switches direction a few times, with the train driver moving to the other end of the train. The train climbs up an incline of 160m. This is where the best view on the Kisuki Line lies. The Kisuki Line slowly crosses the watershed of the highlands. The next stop on the line is the Miinohara Station, the highest station on the JR West Railway. Finally, you will reach the last station along Kisuki Line, Bingo-ochiai Station. Once a strategic point, Bingo-ochiai is now a deserted station.
Next, we will journey along the Kishigawa Line in Wakayama Prefecture. Start your journey at Wakayama Station, which is 14.3 km away from the last stop along the line, Kishi Station. It is a local line that goes inland. A day ticket gives you unlimited rides. A unique sight awaits you at Wakayama Station – the Strawberry Train! Its name is derived from the fact that the local produce of Kishigawa-cho is strawberries. The train is white and red in colour, and strawberry insignia can be seen all over the train, even on the cushions. The train makes its way to Nichizengu Station, where there is the Hinokuma Shrine, which is rich in history and tradition. There are three stations along the line, and the Kishigawa Line originally began as a route to connect these shrines.
From Nichizengu Station, go to the Hanayama Hot Springs nearby. It is known as the best hot spring in Kansai. The water is brown in colour, and rich in nutrients like calcium and magnesium. You’ll be surprised to know that karaoke sessions are held in the lounge here, where the bathhouse guests assemble after their baths to sing. It is a great way to meet new people and make friends.
