It’s that time of the year again where everything has change to a splendid scene of white. Like it or not, winter has arrived at the Japan Islands and will provide a simply unforgettable scene for superb views and experiences of genuine human warmth.

Approximately 1 hour 20 minutes away by plane from Tokyo is Aomori. There in lies the northernmost tip of Tsugaru peninsula, where the magnificent Cape Tappi overlooks the Tsugaru Straits. Head to Goshogawara city first, located at the foot of Mount Iwaki famous for its delicious codfish and greenling (Hokke). In the middle of Tsugaru plain, it is known as the birthplace of Samisen (Japanese banjo), and also the place for Goshogawara Tachineputa festival.

Ironically, in Tsugaru, Tohoku, there has been a restaurant named ‘Texas’ that has been in operation for 35 years now.  A place where many travellers gather, Texas’s specialty menu is its authentic curry with rice. A special traditional katsu curry taste which it has kept for 35 years, the simplicity of the dish is will send many good memories flooding back. If you’re lucky, you might even have the opportunity to hear the master of the place play a tune or two on his accordion.

A popular hobby in Goshogawara is kite flying and it’s no wonder that the national kite competition is held by the Iwaki River every March. The intricately crafted Tsugaru kites are at the heart of tradition in Goshogawara. The big kites are crafted by rice farmers during the agricultural off-season and the local Aomori Hiba is used for the flame. The Hiba is strong as it has weathered violent wind and snow. Soaring in the sky, the kites, which hold a bright and vivid colour, make a spectacular sight.

Another winter tradition not to be missed out on is a ride on the stove train, an old style adventure which is sure to bring back many feelings of nostalgia. Starting at the Tsugaru Goshogawara station of the Tsugaru line, the stove train is pulled by a classic diesel engine car and one can enjoy a charcoal stove as a fireplace. True to the retro feeling, a conductor comes once in a while to add charcoal to the stove while you can enjoy the view of Tsugaru plain.

Alight from the stove train at Kanagi station, the hometown of the famous writer, Osamu Dazai. Dazai’s birthplace was built in 1907 and is named Shayou-Kan. It is preserved as the memorial house of the famed writer.

While there, you might want to visit the public bath which has been around for 60 long years. Keeping the style of the Showa era, the clear hot spring was dug out to 100 meters deep in 1983. With the water providing much refreshment to the skin, it’s also a place of relaxation for regulars since their childhood days. Most importantly, it provides much needed warmth in the thick of the Japan winter.

After exploring Kanagi enough, take the bus to Kodomari, a nearby fishing town of 4000 people facing the Japan Sea. With the view changing to the breathtaking scenery of the Japan Sea, you’ll arrive at Cape Tappi – the northernmost tip of Tsugaru.

A simple place to stay at with a breathtaking view of the Kodomari fishing port and the Japan Sea, is the guest-house Shibasaki.  The inn offers the warm atmosphere of a northern fishing town and has a reputation for serving a great variety of the best fresh seafood, with codfish being the seasonal catch in winter. Some of the dishes include a cod hot pot, a sashimi plate comprising locally fished octopus, squid and turban shell, flounder cooked in sweet soy sauce and Izushi, a matured sushi that is fermented by lactic acid.

The path via Lake Jusanko to Cape Tappi may prove to be a scenic choice if the direct route during the severity of winter is closed.  Lake Jusanko is a brackish lake that has a mixture of fresh and sea water. The deepest point is only 1.5 meters, allowing clam harvesting to prosper. These clams from Lake Jusanko have firm meat and are popular for their rich flavour.

A recommended restaurant/inn by the local fishermen is Kinkoen, which overlooks Lake Jusanko. Its specialty is its clam set lunch that consists of all kinds of clam dishes including clam miso soup and rice cooked with clams and vegetables. Its original menu is the rich-flavoured rice porridge, simply prepared by cooking clams in butter and then having cooked rice added.

Next you can choose to hop on a taxi from Lake Jusanko to the Odai stop at JR train station and transfer to a bus in Minmaya. Minmaya is the northernmost station in Tsugaru peninsula and is about 20 minutes to Tappi fishing port by bus.

Tappi fishing port has the atmosphere of the farthest land, the national route changes into the only national stair route in Japan, which leads one to the Cape Tappi lighthouse. The lighthouse oversees the movements of the boats coming from the west of Tsugaru Straits. While the snow and sea may be rough, the final destination is simply beautiful and soul-stirring with its blue-green colour. The view that can only be seen in the middle of winter is truly worth the trek.

Another place to begin a trip to find a superb winter view is Iida city in Nagano, at the foot of the South Alps. Taking a bus from Iida station, there is a superb view point in the South Alps – the Tateishi area located in the south of Iida city. Due to its landform and weather, Tateishi is the home of persimmons with dried persimmon a seasonal tradition of the region in winter.

It’s about a five minutes drive by car to the viewpoint of the South Alps where most of the snow is behind. Stretching over three prefectures, namely Nagano, Yamanashi and Shizuoka, the magnificent South Alps consist of more than 20 mountains. Seeing the snow-capped mountains will surely be a spectacular and unforgettable view.

However, if you’d like another viewpoint of the South Alps, do visit Tamuro, a noodle shop that boasts an excellent view from the top of the hill. 3000 meter mountains such as the second highest Kita-dake and Senjoga-take can be seen from there. While taking in the majestic view, do try the master’s recommendation – the Tamuro course. Comprising a smooth textured genuine Shinshu soba and homemade black bean tofu made from black soya beans, the course also comes with a deep-fried black tofu containing various vegetables. There can be nothing better than having the perfect food while taking in the perfect view.

Take the JR Iida line to the Komagane station where the Central Alps are in view. In between Kiso valley and Ina valley in the middle of the main island of Japan, the Central Alps range from the south to north for 80km. To get to Senjojiki Komaga-take, where the Hotel Senjojiki is located atop Hoken-dake, visitors can take the bus followed by a gondola from the station at Shirabidaira. Opened in 1983 and located 2612 meters above the sea, it is the highest located hotel in Japan and has the Central Alps is in full view from the hotel window.

The hotel dinner offers much more than what one would expect being so high above ground. From sashimi of trout and salmon belly, a hot pot consisting of pork and vegetables to the famous inventive grilled char (Iwana) with mayonnaise.
 
Get off the Oita line at the Shinano Omachi station, the entrance to the North Alps. Omachi city is at the foot of the North Alps, in the range of 3000 mountains. In the middle of the North Alps standing at 2024 meters above the sea is Noguchi Gor-dake. It is not easy to get a good view of the mountain which is also surrounded by many other mountains. However, one could try the Omachi dam among other spots to try to get a glimpse of the glorious Noguchi Goro-dake.