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  New Year Special! Journey To Visit Superb View of Hometown (Pt 2)
27 December 2008
   
 
   
 
   
 

Give your eyes a breathtaking treat yet again as we continue on in our search for the best winter views in Japan!

This week we begin our journey in Sapporo City, Hokkaido, which is known for its mountains, rivers and seas. Along the way to Lake Saloma by the Sea of Okhotsk, savour delicious local food and experience the warmth of northern Japan that will be sure to provide an unforgettable adventure for all.

Begin your journey from the JR Sapporo station and alight at Takikawa. For a true taste of Hokkaido, transfer to a local train and get off at Ebeotsu station where within walking distance lies a road side station which serves tasty food such as homemade pickles prepared by the locals. The station also sells local agricultural and processed products and visitors may even get the opportunity to attend a workshop to learn more about the unique pickle making process.

Another special product that visitors to Takikawa cannot miss out on is the Aigamo duck hot pot. Adding home grown vegetables such as cabbage, onions and mushrooms, and also freshly pounded rice cake made of Hokkaido rice to the hot pot will be sure to warm you right from the stomach to the heart. This meal is the perfect way to keep warm during the cold of the Hokkaido winter.

After warming your stomachs, head on the train again to Biei where a superb winter view awaits in the beautiful village of hills. The pension Pok Rok is located right in the middle of the hill and provides a warm refuge from the winter’s cold. Opened 10 years ago, the master of the inn hails from Hokkaido and his wife from Saitama. The couple was totally fascinated by the beauty of Biei and decided to migrate and open the inn.

Pok Rok also boasts a menu that has a mixture of Japanese and western dishes consisting solely of Hokkaido products. Some of Pok Rok’s signature dishes include stewed Kasube (ray), soup made from home-made sausage and local vegetables. However the true highlight of the meal is the local specialty - sautéed Biei pork. Made by inserting cheese and prune into the pork, it’s also seasoned with home-made herb salt which is sprinkled over both sides of the meat before being fried slowly on low heat. The sweet and sour taste of the prunes enhances the flavour of the Biei pork, making it an original dish that’s not to be missed out on.

Stay the night at the inn and the next day, head towards Shirogane hot spring by taking a drive along the silver birch road which has been selected amongst the top 100 roads in Japan. Also known as the blue river due to the volcanic ash that reflects in the sun light, take in the spectacular view on top of the bridge where the Biei river runs. On the other side of the bridge is yet another amazing view of the Shirahige waterfall. Despite it being at 20 degrees below zero, the water that flows from Daisetsu-zan never freezes.

After being swept away by the spectacular and serene snow-white world, hop aboard the single carriage train, Furano-go. Get off the Furano line at Asahikawa and transfer to express train number three of Okhotsk. A two hour ride will lead travelers to the Engaru station and transfer to a bus that heads to Lake Saroma by the Sea of Okhotsk.

Lake Saroma is the third largest lake in Japan after the lakes Biwa and Kasumigaura. It’s about 25 kilometers from east to west and its sand shore is fronting on the Sea of Okhotsk. Despite it being sunny in earlier parts of the trip, Hokkaido is a vast city and slight snowfall can be expected. If the weather is fine, the Sea of Okhotsk, which spans 1000 kilometers to Siberia, can also be seen over the lake.

Another interesting sight at Lake Saroma is oyster and scallop farming which has prospered thanks to the calm water. Being a brackish lake with the sea water from Okhotsk, good quality shellfish grows in the rich mineral water. While the freshness of the oysters can be enjoyed raw, also savour the oysters and scallops that are cooked over charcoal.

Yet another itinerary to find superb views of winter is a World Heritage trip to Shirakawa-go Gokayama.

Arriving at the Himi station, take the bus to Junicho Higa Suigo Park – a place of rest and relaxation for locals, and also a place for relatively good scenery. During the yearly winter period, see the graceful swans take flight or even try your hand at feeding them. 13 years ago, swans started flying from Siberia to the park and while there were only four swans to start with, local volunteers have been working hard and the park now attracts more than 20 swans annually. Swans fly around the tideland during winter so that they can fly back to Siberia in the spring.

Himi is synonymous with kan-buri and at Kawagishi marine products, visitors can observe its production here. Made with large local turnips with Buri placed in between, traditional turnip sushi is placed in a bucket and left to ferment in malted rice for a week. The practice is said to have been done by the common people in the past to conceal eating this luxurious Buri fish in front of the feudal lord. Today however, this is a luxurious dish that can only be eaten in Himi. It is also a Hokuriku tradition and is an imperative for the New Year.

Next, hop aboard the train yet again and enjoy the window view of Toyama Bay. Takaoka city is the second largest city in the Toyama prefecture and is a castle town with an extremely rich history and has rows of old houses with lattice-work remaining in Kanaya-cho.

A prosperous industry for the Kaga Clan in the Edo era, Kanaya-cho is also the birthplace of Takaoka copperware. For an experience of true history and heritage, visit the Otera Kohachiro shop which has long established itself as a copperware wholesaler. Having been around for 140 years, the shop has succeeded in carrying on the tradition and has a large assortment of copperwares such as vases, pots, and expensive art works.

Enshrined right in the middle of Takaoka town is what locals call one of Japan’s three great Buddhas. After the wooden Buddha was destroyed by fire twice, 75 years ago, a bronze Buddha was rebuilt as a symbol of the town of copper.

Sankyoson (“the village of scattered houses”), just like its name suggests, is a village in the traditional style whereby each house is surrounded by its own field, allowing the inhabitants to irrigate anywhere in the village. Showing four different sceneries during the various seasons, this is regarded as one of the most authentic and iconic sceneries of Japan.

Alighting at Nadaka and taking a stroll around the village, one would quickly be able to recognise the big gabled roofs and entrances that are mostly oriented in the east as wind blows from the west. The trees tower over the houses, protecting it as if it’s a castle while also shielding the residents from the snow. The Nyudo is registered as a cultural asset by the Toyama Prefecture and its residents are full of wisdom about how to live with nature.

The last stop is Okayama, where “The World Heritage Ainokura village of rafter roof” lies. Arriving at Ainokura village feels like you’re being immersed in a world of old tales.  Registered as a world heritage site in 1995, 23 houses with a steep rafter roof for snow to slide off easily still remain in the village.

A good place to stay is the guest house, Nakaya, which also has a rafter roof of its own. The building is one of the oldest in the Ainokura village and has a unique attractiveness of an approximately 300 year old house. On a cold winter night, in Gokayama, enjoy a dinner by a sunken fireplace which creates a rare atmosphere unlikely to be experienced in cities.

The next morning, visit the local hot spring, Goka-sanso, which is an inexpensive lodge run by the local government. Enjoy the perfect combination of having a beautiful snow landscape in sight as you take a soak in the open air bath.

Arriving in Gifu next, Shirakawa-Go is also a registered world heritage site. Experiencing prolonged winter, white cabbage and red turnips are made to pickle by locals as preserved winter food. Be sure to take in the spectacular panoramic view of the Shirakawa-Go village snow scene to put another beautiful conclusion to yet another journey of stunning views.

 
Episodes
Heartful Train (Pt 2)
Heartful Train (Pt 1)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 2)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 1)
Journey of Looking For Seasonal Flowers In Japan (Pt 2)
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- For a hot meal, purchase a large tasty lunch box at the Asahikawa station from the lunch box vendor for the rest of your journey on the express train Okhotsk.
       
  - To visit the Nyudo, travelers will have to make a booking in advance in order to enter the village.