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Secret Scenery in Popular Spots (Pt 1)
16 February 2008
     
 
   
 
   
 
This week on Japan Hour, discover the undiscovered. First up, head to Miyajima via tram. Get off at the Atomic Bomb Dome, a structure that was built to commemorate the fateful day the atomic bomb dropped over Hiroshima, bringing an end to World War Two.

From there, hop on a river cruise which takes you on a tour around Hiroshima City. Walk over to Itsukushima Shrine after that and be greeted by the sight of Japanese deer. The shrine is the most popular sightseeing spot in Miyajima and was built by Kiyomori Taira. Next stop is a visit to Yamaichi, a famous eatery to try out the local delicacy in Miyajima - conger eel rice. The local conger eel is grilled and seasoned with sweet and salty sauce.It is a big hit with tourists.

Later on, head to Gojunoto (5 storey tower) Senjokaku (1,000 mats hall) built by Hideyoshi Yoyotomi. It is one of the unknown places in Miyajima. After a long day, rest at Watanabe Inn. It sits quietly behind the Shrine and has pretty views of Miyajima.

Watanabe Inn offers "Kaiseki" style dining where dishes are served one at a time. The appetiser includes an assortment of six items. Other dishes such as abalone and prawns cooked with white sauce and white wine as well as sea bream sashimi are served as well.

The next day, enjoy a soak in the cypress tub in your room before going for breakfast. Breakfast consists of seven different dishes such as the inn's special egg roll with kelp stock.

The next hidden gem in Miyajima, is Misen. Part of the reason could lie in getting there. The first part of getting there means taking a cable car ride, followed by a climb up a mountain. On the way up, stop by the Misen Shrine and be refreshed with a drink of the special hot water that'll be found boiling over a fire. Apart from quenching your thirst, this water is said to have curative properties.

Arrive at the summit and enjoy the excellent view of the islands in the Sea of Seto at the top of the observatory.

The next place to head to is in Nikko. At JR Nikko Station, a crying dragon prays for tourists' safety. Superb views of Japan and Toshogu's secrets can be found in historical Nikko. Whilst walking, pass by a stall selling paintings of dragons drawn with a single brush stroke. You can purchase a painting to keep as a souvenir.

After crossing the Shin (godly) Bridge, arrive at historical Nikko Toshogu. The third Shogun, Iemitsu Tokugawa built the Nikko Toshogu. A 15 minute walk from there brings you to Kanmangafuchi. The many Jizos lined up on the way are called "deceiving Jizos" because the numbers lined up don't match.

Fill your tummy with Yuba (soy bean sheets) at Shinkoma restaurant. Yuba is usually cream-coloured but this particular restaurant serves the rare white yuba. Shinkoma restaurant is a buckwheat noodle shop which was opened after World War II. The yuba tastes delicious with a sweet taste just like a rice cake. It is only available at this restaurant in Nikko.

The place you will visit next is the Uraminotaki (Waterfall of Grudges), one of Nikko's 3 famous waterfalls. This place is an extremely popular tourist attraction. Behind the waterfall, the Fudomyo God is celebrated. Another waterfall to visit is the Kegon Waterfalls. It's best to see it from the top. To get to the summit, you have to take a cable car ride. From there, you can see the nearby Lake Chuzenji and Mt. Nantai.

Head to an inn in Yumoto next to stay the night. "Yunomori" (forest of hot springs) Inn opened last October and it's 12 guest rooms all come with a private outdoor cypress tub with natural hot spring water. For dinner, try out an autumn themed meal of Matsutake mushrooms, char sashimi and salmon yuba wrap amongst others. The main dish is the local Tochigi beef grilled on a stone plate.

Further into Senjogahara, visit Odashirogahara. There stands a white birch tree named the "Noblewoman". It is a gorgeous slender tree standing in a field by itself, just like a noblewoman standing alone.

Finally, 40 minutes on the Senseki Line from Sendai in Miyagi, will see you arriving in Matsushima. Visit the usual places in Matsushima before heading into Oku (inner) Matsushima for unknown superb views. Walk to Cedar Street and visit Zuigan Temple, also known as the temple of the Date Clan, famous for Masumune Date, the leader of the Sendai domain. Check out the main hall where the core of the Date culture was created and enter the "Indoor Peacock" room.

After the temple, head for Maguro Teahouse which in fact a sushi restaurant. Don't miss trying out the recommended dish of Chirashi in a bucket. The dish features 25 types of seafood including local scallops.

Walk off lunch by heading off to the pier. There, hop on a ferry that will travel to the islands in Matsushima Bay. You can feed the seagulls along the way as it is a 50 minute boat ride. Reach Oshima where you will be able to see the Bay of Matsushima from land. Enjoy Basho Matsuo's haiku poem and try creating one of your own.

 
Episodes
Heartful Train (Pt 2)
Heartful Train (Pt 1)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 2)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 1)
Journey of Looking For Seasonal Flowers In Japan (Pt 2)
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- The symbol of Miyajima's Itsukushima Shrine is the Otori (great) Gate.
       
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The Itsukushima Shrine was registered as a world cultural heritage site in 1996.

 
       
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Kobodaishi is said to have trained at the Misen Shrine.

 
       
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Water boiled by the fire at the Reika Hall in the Misen Shrine is said to cure any illness.

 
       
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The Tokugawa family crest has a sleeping cat on it and is said to be a symbol of peace.

 
       
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The family crest was sculpted by Zengoro Hidari.

 
       
  - Yuba, which is usually cream-coloured, turns white because the fat is removed through many stages.  
       
  - "Uraminotaki" (seeing the waterfall from behind) got it's name because it could be seen from the back.  
       
  - Grilling Tochigi beef on a stone plate makes the meat tender and juicy.  
       
  - Keep a bell with you to scare the bears away when you visit Odashirogahara.  
       
  - Matsushima is one of Japan's top three scenic spots.  
       
  - There are around 260 islands in Matsushima Bay.