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There’s much to see along Japan’s railway lines! So hop aboard and join us on the next part of our journey on even more adventures around Japan.
First, head aboard the Gono Line and take a short stop at Todoroki, a hearty station which has attracted numerous visitors over the years. Also a small, quiet town, Todoroki is a rare example of a close-knit community which will definitely be a refreshing change for many city slickers.
Head back on the railway after soaking in the fresh air and warmth of the countryside, and head to Fukaura, a port where the kitamaebune used to wait for the tail wind. Still standing is the post which guided the ships during the time and there’s even a museum which houses a reconstructed kitamaebune for visitors to take a look. Filled with many archaic sights and old-fashioned street signs, a unique place to visit is Choenmaru. A shop which sells electronics on the front, and is also a traditional miso manufacturing factory at the back, it will definitely prove to be an eye opening visit for all.
With a small frontage and a large back, Obayama was founded in the Edo period. Since then, it produces koji by covering it with straw and keeping it in a stone hut during spring and autumn, twice a year. Till this day, the way of straw knitting has remained. Passed down through 12 generations, this method of making Obayama’s miso was also learnt from kitamaebune and is known as Shirakamidake.
While in Fukuara, do also indulge in a meal in a shop located on the mountain top, offering the best seasonal foods ranging from gasa (rockfish), watercress, sea squirt to nettle seasoned with soy sauce.
The next stop is Wespa Tsubakiyama and while there, head to the dome-shaped open air bath with a stunning retractable roof for some rest and relaxation. Also a ten minute drive from the hot spring is Biyokan, a cosy and homely place run by a family. From growing their own rice and vegetables in the summer, this family even helps prepare their guests’ meals in the kitchen as well. No wonder then that dinner includes a sumptuous meal of squid tobanyaki, dobinmushi, squid and botan shrimp sashimi, firm flesh flatfish and even abalone boiled with seaweed soup. If you’re wondering, the cost of staying at this quaint inn for a night costs 8925 yen (S$146.60), with two meals included.
Near the inn is also a fishing port, where one can catch a sightseeing cruiser to get a panoramic view of Shirakami. Even though the cruiser is a small fishing boat, it’s nonetheless a comfortable ride especially with Mr. Tsuruta at the helm. This enthusiastic fisherman wanted to show off the beauty of Shirakami-sanchi to as many as possible and applied for a cruiser license not too long ago. But if you’re looking to have a closer look, do get directions from the inn and head to the foot of Shirakami-sanchi where the pristine spring-water that refracts the light and shines a mysterious blue awaits.
Next, jump aboard the Noto Rail and travel northward along the inland sea before heading for the Sea of Japan. Alight at Nishigishi station where if you visit in June, you’ll get the chance to savour some fresh oysters that are in season at the time. Known as the milk of the sea because they’re so nutritious, workers will skilfully open the spring oyster shells and may even open up to 2000 oysters a day in the peak season. Whether it’s roasted, fried or just boiled in the frying pan this is something that oyster lovers surely can’t miss. Complementary to the oysters is also Noto’s locally brewed sake which some add the oyster juice to.
Leaving Miyamoto Suisan, next head for Meiji no Yakata which is only 300 meters away from the station. A thatched house in irimoya style which faces the inland sea, it’s a building of the Muroki clan, shoya and forwarder. This rare thatched house began being built in Meiji Year 12 (1879) and took 10 years in total to be built.
After stopping for lunch at a restaurant with a spectacular sea view, head to the Anamizu terminal of the Noto Railway which was extended to the tip of the peninsula in 2005. A daily transportation that carries people many other items, as roads have improved and used by less people, Anamizu has become the terminal station. From the terminal take a 30 minute bus ride along the mountain roads to reach the next destination.
Built in the Kamakura period, the Agishi Honsen-ji Temple is not a typical or popular sightseeing spot. Standing at 20 meters tall, the thatched roof has a thickness of 1.8 meters and is actually a rather quiet and tasteful old temple.
Following which, heading to the Sea of Japan, the scenery changes dramatically as visitors arrive in Kazenashi whose name literally means - no wind. An archaic fishing town with a port locally known as Jige-no-ma, the roofs of the town are all made from black tiles making it look like a scene out of Europe.
A splendid place to stay in this breathtaking town is the Umi no Oka Club, which has a beautiful pension style. Many guests can’t resist visiting the club again and again, as they can’t get enough of the taste of the fish and the spectacular scenery out the window. Prepared by the eldest son, fish freshly caught on that day is served for dinner. Furthermore, as the host of the club is the owner of a fixed shore net, a luxurious spread of seafood including flying fish, tuna, yellowtail, bream sashimi and abalone steak are all served as well. If that’s not all, do try the crispy prawn tempura and the golden crab, a hybrid of the snow crab and the red snow crab which tastes amazing especially since it’s served at once after boiling.
Breakfast at the inn is equally luxurious, though you’ll have to get up early if you’d like the first pick of seafood which ranges from tuna to rockfish and barracuda. It’s not surprising that the inn also has a good reputation for being a dispatcher of fresh fish as well.
After filling your stomachs, finally head to the Sea of Japan which has a wonderful emerald green colour and boasts one of the 55 best beaches in Japan as well.
The next adventure awaits on the Shimabara Railroad, Nagasaki, which has over 100 years of history. Although it’s not as famous a place, Kojiro-machi is a town that remains with a distinctive Shimabara atmosphere. Alighting at the station, do visit the Nabeshima House. A samurai house made with beautiful tiles and stone walls, Kojiro Nabeshima is an enclave of the Nabeshima territory and has been taken care of by people since the old days. The house also has much history, with the Nabeshima clan having made several important decisions in the rooms of the house. While there, you’ll also get the chance to savour delicacies like sprout miso made from bamboo shoot grown in the yard of the house.
Make your way next to the Omisaki Station, Simabara Peninsula. There visitors will get an eye-opening opportunity to see how Japanese candles are made by the traditional method. The Japanese candle can amazingly be burnt for about 10 hours. In the Edo period, the wick was traditionally rather long and a specialised worker was responsible for removing the burnt wick every two hours.
Heading south of the peninsula, the next stop is the Shimabara station. A castle town full of greenery, the station in itself is a magnificent sight. Shimabara is a castle town of the Matsudaira clan and has six spots of drinkable spring water around the area. Since there are no rivers and dams in Shimabara, some believe that the spring water is the underflow of Fugendake and has been running for over 800 years. The town thus gets its drinkable water from the mountains, Fugendake and Mayuyama.
While taking a walk along the streets, do try Shimabara’s specialty, kanazarashi and handmade somen.
A good place to stay for the night is Kaiboso, which is a five minute walk along the shoreline and stands on a hill facing the port. Made out of wood, the inn has been around for 50 years now and has an antiquated atmosphere. Providing both a panoramic view of the mountains and the sea, do also take a nice hot spring bath which attracts many visitors throughout the year.
Naturally, a trip along the shoreline renders yet another sumptuous meal of seafood from the Ariake Sea. The recommendation of the inn is the blowfish and a variety of other seafood like sashimi of flatfish, guzoni and many others, all for a price of 12000 yen (S$198). Furthermore, end off the trip in the morning with a trip to the fish market, with lobsters being sold at 1000 yen (S$16.50) - a price only available in a fishing town.
Having met so many people who live a solid life with the sea on this adventure on the local shoreline train, it will definitely be an eye opening experience one won’t regret and forget. |