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  Journey of Looking For Seasonal Flowers In Japan (Pt 1)
3 January 2009
   
 
   
 
   
 

There is nothing more delightful than seeing the exuberance of beautiful flowers decorate Japan throughout the year. From Hokkaido to Kyoto and then to Kyushu, this week, we venture on in the search for the best flower spots in the country.

The first stop in our tour of the flower fields in Japan is the Fukushima prefecture. Alighting at the Kooriyama station, a ten minute bus ride will bring you to Kaiseizan Park which is located in the middle of the town. Also a place of rest and relaxation for locals, the rose garden is a winter feature of the park. With admission free for the public in May and October, about 400 kinds of colourful roses bloom in the large park and is also a wonderful place for photography.

Head back to the train station and get on the Aizu liner express train to head to the next flower spot. Enjoy the scenery from the 35 minute train ride as you pass by Aizu Bandaisan, the mountain of treasure. Alight at the Inawashiro station and take the free shuttle bus to the Inawashiro herb garden, also known as “Haven”.  Apart from enjoying the 10,000 plants of 500 varieties, the park also boasts a panoramic view of Lake Inawashiro and even gives visitors the opportunity to pick flowers as well.

The next stop on the itinerary is Aizu Wakamatsu, the most popular tourist spot in the Fukushima prefecture. For a good meal, head to popular local restaurant ryokan Tagoto, which was established 80 years ago.  A popular dish of choice is the white bait or salmon Meppa-meshi (rice) set, otherwise also commonly called Wappa-meshi.

Feeling contented after such a hearty meal, take a stroll to the city which retains the flavour of the old castle town it once flourished as. Visit the Ozawa candle shop which has established itself for 400 years now selling hand-painted candles which are also the traditional crafts of Aizu. Used as ceremonial gifts or decorations for many years, celebration ceremonies used to be decorated with painted candles and hence, the term “gorgeous candle light” is another word for wedding party. At Ozawa candle shop, you can even try your hand at painting on the candles and will make great personalised souvenirs to bring home.

Head to the village that is home to the best star lilies in Japan next, Fukushima. A recommended place to stay at is the Higashiyama hot spring, Shintaki. Inn Shitaki is the best established ryokan, that has 1300 years of history.
 
Truly pamper yourself and enjoy a sumptuous dinner served at a stylish Japanese restaurant, Dining Yuzen. The dishes served are prepared with a lot of locally produced ingredients. For those who’d like a good taste of Aizu, do try the horse sashimi, marinated herring with Japanese peppers and Kozoyu (stewed vegetables cooked in scallop soup), which are all specialities of the region. However the best dish of all is the fresh Koshihikari rice of Fukushima, which is also a rice-producing region.

In the morning, head to Aizu Tajima on the Aizu line, which is about an hour’s ride on the Village Train. The town is known for being home to the best star lilies in Japan and there are a few different spots to have a good look at them, depending on the time at which you choose to visit. Some of the places include the Takashimizu park and the Nango Ski ground, which is a protection area for the rare plant which is indigenous to Japan plant.

A 30 minute car ride from that area is the Komado wetland, which is viewed by many as a true natural treasure. With transient white cotton sedges in bloom in the green wetland, the view is simply fascinating and surreal.

Next up is a place where most people wouldn’t normally associate with flowers – Kyoto. The historical city is usually identified as being home to numerous shrines and temples, though few may know that there are several delightful flower spots in the vicinity.

The first destination is Uji, a 20 minute train ride from Kyoto. From the station, head to the Mimuroto-ji temple, which is also known as a temple of hydrangeas as it is home to 10,000 hydrangea plants in its 5000-tsubo (178,000 square feet) garden. Furthermore, it also boasts 30 kinds of hydrangea in all shapes and sizes, ranging from the Oakleaf to the American hydrangea. It is no wonder then that the temple remains as a popular tourist destination all around the year and is known to be one of the best hydrangea spots in Japan. As a bonus, in the early summer, visitors to the temple will also get to see lotus flowers in full bloom as well.

If you’re starting to feel hungry but also looking to have something unconventional, head to a sushi restaurant that serves sushi not made of fish, but pickled vegetables. The restaurant has been run as a pickle shop and has a history spanning 300 years. Do try the “suguki”, a traditional pickle in which only salt is used for lactic fermentation. It also makes a healthy choice and goes well with grilled rice balls with tea poured over it. This meal will literally give you a taste of the tradition and history of the old town of Kyoto!

Unbeknownst to many, the famous Heian Shrine in Kyoto has a large garden which is also a great spot for flowers. At the back of the main shrine, 2000 plants of 200 kinds of iris flowers provide a fantastic landscape that is worth visiting.

There are several other temples in Kyoto with flower scenes worth visiting. Coming to the Torin-in Temple which is known for the sarasojyu (sandalwood) tree from the famous Tale ok Heike, a beautiful garden awaits. The renowned sandalwood tree is especially open to the public for the flowering season. While the flowers may bloom in the morning and die in the evening, its transience will nonetheless impress all who come to see it.

About 20 minutes by a pick-up bus from the station, a recommended place to stay for the night is Sumiya Khouan in Yunohana hot spring village. Only renovated last year, the ryokan inn is highly exclusive and high-grade.  Apart from being refreshed by the inn’s vaunted Great Garden, also relieve and relax yourself at the hot spring. Furthermore, you may even get to have a comfortable and soothing bath while watching the hydrangeas at the same time.

After a good time of rest and relaxation at the hot spring, indulge in another Kyoto style meal that is served at the restaurant of the inn. Seasonal ingredients are generously used for the dinner menu and there are all sorts of Kyoto delicacies to savour. Do try the hot pot of Hamo (Japanese conger eel) which is simply delicious and not to be missed out on!

Next, head north on the express train from Kameoka station in search of yet another flower spot alighting at Sonobe station. An hour bus ride will lead you to Miyama town, a place where one can’t help but feel time has stood still. Miyama town preserves an extremely authentic and original scene of Japan especially with many houses still sporting thatched roofs. Apart from that, Miyama is also a town of many colourful flowers, with different flowers blooming and welcoming visitors in every season.

Another destination that can’t be missed especially on a flower tour is Hokkaido. First fuel up with a meal at Restaurant Porto, situated on the eighth floor in a building on top of the hill. The most enticing thing about the restaurant is the great view that also accompanies the meal. The gourmet lunch, which is also of good value, has a popular French menu with fresh seafood.

If you’re tired from all the walking, you still can get a tour of the best flower spots in Kushiro Marshland by trolley train. Be transported back to your childhood as the train takes visitors to the depths of road-less marshland, the largest in Japan. It is truly rare sight to see untouched nature as the train slows down to allow visitors to see the carpets of flowers close up. As if to enjoy the short summer, there are many plants in bloom including the rare water arum and the colourful yellow marsh marigold. Furthermore, there are many wild animals in the marshland, truly making it a paradise for plants and animals through the years.

In between Mashuko, the clearest lake in the world, and Kussharo-ko lies the Kawayu hot spring where one can choose to stay the night. The hot spring is famous for its abounding hot water in Hokkaido. As its name implies, hot water from Mount Iozan flows everywhere into the town and at the foot of the mountain lies Tsutsujigahara, another flower spot worth visiting.

A nature trail is laid out from the town to Tsutsujigahara and while one may have to make a 30 minute walk through bountiful forests, an amazing view awaits. In the severe environment where there lies volcanic ash and acidic soil, pretty white azaleas bloom.

To end of this part of the flower journey, enjoy a luxurious meal at the inn starting with the Taraba crab’s firm meat with a hot pot, followed by a hairy crab that is packed with much deliciousness and sweetness. That is truly a satisfying way to end off a journey full of beauty and surprises.

 
Episodes
Heartful Train (Pt 2)
Heartful Train (Pt 1)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 2)
Inns With Unique Baths (Pt 1)
Journey of Looking For Seasonal Flowers In Japan (Pt 2)
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- At the Inawashiro herb garden, get a special discount rate of 300 yen (S$5) for an entry pass that is valid for a whole year.
       
  - Star lilies in Takashimizu park are usually in full bloom till the beginning of July, while the white cotton sedges in the Komado wetland are in bloom till the end of June.  
       
  - In Uji during the hydrangea flowering period, there is a special bus that costs 500 yen per person (S$8) that runs directly from the train station to the Mimuroto-ji temple.