This week, we travel by local trains in search of hot springs and spas throughout Japan. We will visit 50 hot springs as we embark on a 3500-km journey from the southernmost to the northernmost point of Japan. Arm yourself with a map, but be prepared for unexpected surprises along the way. Besides pampering your skin, body and even your feet at these hot springs, you will also get to feast on some delicious delicacies at tasteful spa inns.
The first part of our adventure – spanning four days and three nights - begins in Magurazaki, Kagoshima. Travel by local train from Magurazaki to Tottori, and visit several hot springs along the way. Take a morning train from Kagoshima Chuo Station and head to the famous spa town of Ibusuki. Ask the locals for directions to a hot spring called Nigatsuden Onsen, Tonosamayu – the first of this trip. It used to be the villa of the Shimazu clan for generations. Later, as you walk along the shore, you will come across a second hot spring, Kaichu-ashiyu (foot hot spring in the sea). During high tide, it is hidden in the sea, so you have to catch it at the right time. After this, head back to Kagoshima Chuo Station. The third hot spring is in Kirishima. Switch to the Hisatsu Line at Hayato Station, from where it is a 30-minute ride to Kirishima, believed to be where Japan’s first honeymoon took place. The story goes that Sakamoto Ryoma of the late Edo period was injured in the Teradaya Incident, and visited Shiohitashi Onsen for about 10 days to recuperate and spend time with his wife Oryo. If you are hungry after visiting this hot spring, drop by the Soba Dokoro Teishaba restaurant which serves dishes such as Tempura soba and Kakiage soba.
Next, go to Hitoyoshi, which has several good hot springs. Enjoy a scenic train ride to Yoshimatsu, and change trains to go to Hitoyoshi. The sightseeing train offers a panoramic view, and even stops at scenic spots so that you can enjoy the enchanting scenery. From Hitoyoshi terminal in Kumamoto, head to the popular public bath – Natural Radon Onsen - the fourth hot spring of this trip. It is open 24 hours a day and costs only 300 yen (S$4.56). After this, travel for about 30 minutes by train to Yoshio Station. You can stay at a hotel in Yoshio, Kumamoto at the end of your first day. However, do note that when making reservations, you should also request for a taxi to pick you up, as Yoshio Station is an unattended station. The fifth hot spring is a quiet open-air bath of Yoshio onsen called Yusenkaku. It is located near a branch of the Kuma River in the mountains. For dinner, feast on sukiyaki-style wild boar meat - only available during winter - and deer meat sashimi.
On the second day, take the train to Aso Station, and visit the sixth hot spring which is two minutes away from the station. Called Aso Bochu onsen, Yume no Yu, it features an open-air bath with spring water running down. Next, go to Bungo-taketa Station in Oita. Visit a nostalgic hot spring near the station called Hanamizuki, Taketa Onsen. This seventh hot spring looks like a waterfall and is shaped like a dam. Next, take the Kyudai Main Line to go to Yufuin Station in Oita. Yufuin is a famous spa town. Here you will find your eighth hot spring – an ashiyu in the station. It costs 320 yen (S$4.89) for two adults. You can even keep the admission ticket as a souvenir. Take the train to the spa town of Hita. During the Edo period, it was a tenryo town with its own culture. There are many hotels with hot springs located along the Mikuma River. You can stay at the Hita Onsen Mikuma Hotel and enjoy the ninth hot spring, a rooftop open-air bath which gives you a great view of the town. End your second day by eating the delicious Yosenabe (hot pot).
On the third day, take a morning train to Tagawa-gotoji. At Tagawa-ita Station, change to the Heisei Chikuho Railway. Get off at Genji no Mori station and visit the 10th hot spring - Genji no Mori Onsen, located in a hometown centre. After this, take the train to Yukuhashi terminal, where you switch to the JR Nippo Main Line. Get off at Shimonoseki terminal in Yamaguchi, which is located in Honshu. From here, take a train heading to Shin-Yamaguchi and get off at Ozuki. Visit the 11th hot spring, Shinsaku no Yu, which is a 10-minute drive from the station. It is built beside Togyoan, where you can find the grave of Choshu Domain’s hero, Takasugi Shinsaku. Next, ride on the Sanyo Main Line heading to Shin-Yamaguchi. From here, change to the Yamaguchi Line and go to Yuda Onsen Station and try the 12th hot spring, a cosy ashiyu which is free. You will see a statue of a white fox in front of the station. Legend has it that an injured white fox discovered the hot spring here. Visit this famous Yuda Onsen – the 13th of this trip - where the white fox had cured his injured leg by dipping it in the hot spring. This public bath is very popular among the locals and costs 800 million taels (S$12.20) for two people. Next, take a train to Masuda, Shimane. Get off at Tsuwano town – this castle town is known as the “Little Kyoto of Sanin”. You can stay the night at Tsuwano Onsen Juku Wataya, which is near the station, and enjoy the 14th hot spring of this trip. After the relaxing spa, treat yourself to a luxurious dinner of sakagura-nabe and a local dish made of sweet potato and yuba kakiage.
On the fourth day, take the first train to Masuda Station and switch to the Sanin Main Line. Go to Yunotsu, which is famous for its silver mine of Iwami Ginzan; its port and streets have also been listed as World Heritage sites. Take a taxi from the station to the 15th hot spring called Yakushiyu Onsen, which has been recognised by the Japanese Onsen Association. According to the locals, this hot spring is also known to cure certain ailments. Continue on your train journey and go to Yonago Station. Visit the 16th hot spring, Kaise Onsen, the biggest hot spring in the Sanin region. This open-air bath is great for detoxification. After this, take a train to the final destination of this four-day trip which began in Magurazaki – Tottori Station.
The second part of this adventure in search of hot springs also spans four days and three nights. Discover more interesting hot springs as you travel from Tottori Station to Sendai Station. From Tottori, take the morning train to Hamasaka Station. The first hot spring of this part of the adventure - but the 17th of this entire trip – is an ashiyu near the station. After pampering your feet, go to the municipal hot spring Matsu no Yu, the 18th hot spring. Located by the seaside, the hot spring at this scenic site is mixed with salt water from the sea. Take a train to the spa town of Kinosaki Onsen in Northern Kinki area. It has a 1300-year history, dating from the Heian Period. The 19th hot spring is a free ashiyu located next to the station. Get on a train and head for Tooyoka Station, and switch to the Kitakinki Tango Railway which goes to Nishimaizuru. Get off at Tango-Yura Station, and visit a spa which lets you enjoy the view of Tango. From the station, take a five-minute walk to the 20th hot spring - Yurayura Spa Town, Shiokumien. It features an open-air bath with a gorgeous view of the Sea of Japan. Continue your train journey on the Kitakinki Tango Railway to the terminal, Nishimaizuru. From here, take a train heading to Kyoto and stop at Otsukyo where you can stay the night. There is a spa inn near Lake Biwa called Ryotei Koyo. End your day by soaking in the open-air bath of Lake Biwa onsen – the 21st hot spring of this trip.
On the second day, after watching the beautiful sunrise, take the Kosei Line to Omi-Takashima Station and go to the 22nd hot spring - Takarabune Onsen, Kotobuki. It is located near Lake Biwa. Next, ride on the Hokuriku Main Line to Maibara, east of Lake Biwa. Change to the Takayama Main Line at Gifu Station and head to the spa town of Gero. Gero onsen springs out from the Hida River, and is one of the three famous historical hot springs in Japan. Here, pamper your hands at a rare hot spring - a teyu (hand spa)! After this 23th hot spring, go to Gero Onsen Ogawaya, where you can stay the night. You can see the whole town from the rooms. Here, indulge in the 24th hot spring, which is a soothing tatami bath. For dinner, feast on kaiseki ryori - which uses many fresh ingredients of Hida - and tobanyaki beef..
On the third day, travel to Takayama, an inland city, and go to Garyu onsen, Himawari which is 15 minutes away from the station. A popular hot spring, it costs 1000 yen (S$15.30) for one person. This 25th hot spring is an excellent open-air bath which offers a beautiful view of Takayama’s mountains. Next, ride on the Takayama Main Line to Inotani Station, and enjoy a scenic view of the beautiful Jinzu River during your journey
