This week, we continue on our search for hot springs in Japan while travelling on local trains in winter. Indulge in delightful hot springs which will warm you up and leave you feeling relaxed and pampered.
On the third day of the second route - from Tottori Station to Sendai Station – take the Takayama Main Line to Toyama. From Toyama, change trains and head to Uotsu. Enjoy the view of the Tateyama mountain range during the 20-minute train ride. From the station, it is a 10-minute drive to the popular Kintaro Onsen – the 26th hot spring of this entire adventure. The open-air bath features milky spring water with a faint smell of sulphur. Next, go to Noetsu by train and visit Yomogihira Onsen of Nagaoka in Niigata Prefecture, where you can stay the night. This 27th hot spring in the quiet mountains will warm your body and leave you feeling refreshed. Later for dinner, you can try the codfish hotpot, which is full of Niigata’s delicacies. It includes milt and freshly cooked koshihikari rice.
On the fourth and last day of this part of the trip, head for Yonezawa in Yamagata Prefecture and then go to Sendai. There are several routes to go to Sendai. You can choose to go inland to Yonezawa. Change trains at Shibata to go to Sakamachi. The Yonesaka Line runs between Sakamachi in Niigata and Yonezawa. On the way to Yonezawa, stop at Uzentsubaki Station and go to a healing spa inn called Gama No Yu – the 28th hot spring - located in the countryside. Take the Yonesaka Line again and continue your journey to Yonezawa, from where you change to the Ou Main Line which heads to Yamagata. Alight at Sakunami Station and go to Miyako No Yu hot spring, where water gushes from the upper reaches of Hirose River. This 29th hot spring is relaxing and is believed to make your skin smooth. Next, take the train to your destination, Sendai terminal. So far, the entire trip has spanned 2230km over two routes, from Makurazaki to Sendai.
On the last route of this trip, travel from Sendai Station to Wakkanai Station, and visit several hot springs along the way. Remember to bring along a map of Hokkaido and Tohoku to guide you. From Sendai, take the Tohoku Line and go to Kitakami, where there are many hot springs. Along the way, you will pass by places such as Kogota and Ichinoseki. At Kitakami, visit Senganishi Onsen, which is surrounded by nature. This open-air bath is the first hot spring along this route, but the 30th one of this whole trip. Next, travel by the Iwate Ginga Line at Morioka heading to Kouma, from where you change to the Hanawa Line. Alight at Yuze Onsen Station. The open-air Yuze onsen springs out from the river and this 31st hot spring offers a fantastic view of the mountains. Next, travel along the Hanawa Line to Odate Station, where you change to the Ou Main Line and go to Ikarigaseki in Aomori Prefecture. From Ikarigaseki station, take a 15-minute walk, with the help of you map, to Azumashi No Yado, where you can stay the night. Here, indulge in the 32nd hot spring - a Japanese cypress bath in Ikarigaseki onsen. For dinner, feast on a specialty of Aomori, Shamorock's hot pot.
The next day, travel by train for about an hour to Aomori, and change to the Tsugaru Line heading to Kanita. Five hours after leaving Ikarigaseki, you will reach Hakodate Station. Go to Yunokawa onsen, which is 20 minutes away from the station. It is one of the three biggest spa towns in Hokkaido. Visit the 33rd hot spring – the Taiseiyu public hot spring bath - which is very popular among locals. After this, enjoy a meal of seafood donburi - comprising items like crab, squid and salmon roe - and ramen. Next, travel to Mori Station, which is about an hour away from Hakodate. From the station, take a taxi to the open-air bath at Karudera Nigorikawa Onsen Health Center. This 34th hot spring is located in the highland, and springs out from the Hokkaido-Komagatake active volcano, which explains the distinctive smell of sulphur here. Next, ride on the Hakodate Main Line to Oshamanbe, from where you can head to Otaru in Hokkaido. Get off at Otaru-chikko Station and go to Asarigawa Onsen, which is 15 minutes away. You can stay the night at the Marine Hill Hotel and enjoy the 35th hot spring, which offers you a panoramic view of the Sea of Japan. After this, try some delicacies of the area, such as seafood, mountain vegetables and aromatic scorched rice.
The next day, travel to Bibai Station by the Hakodate Main Line. It was originally called Pipaoi in Ainu language. From the station, go to Pipa Yu Rinkan, which is 10 minutes away if you take the free city bus. This 36th hot spring is especially popular among seniors, with its barrier free access and floor heating system. The big bath house on the second floor gives you a panoramic view of the whole town. Head to Asahikawa – the Hakodate Main Line terminal - but on the way, stop at Takikawa Station, and visit the 37th hot spring, the relaxing Takikawa onsen. For lunch, you can drop by a Mongolian barbecue restaurant at the station, which is one of the most famous restaurants in Hokkaido. This 31-year-old Matsuo Genghis Khan restaurant serves delicious meat which is seasoned with a secret sauce before grilling. From here, travel by train to Asahikawa, and change to the Soya Main Line. Get off at Teshiogawa Onsen Station. The quaint village here has a small population. There is only one hotel in this area so do try to make a booking beforehand. Enjoy its hot spring – the 38th of this trip - while taking in the beautiful view of the snow. For dinner, have a simple meal comprising rainbow trout, duck hot pot and soba.
The next day, continue travelling on the Soya Main Line heading to Wakkanai in Hokkaido. After 40 minutes, you will reach Teshio-Nakagawa Station. From the station, take a 10-minute walk to the 39th hot spring - Ponpira Aqua Rizink. Let the smooth hot spring pamper your body. After this, take the train to Toyotomi Station and make your way to the 40th hot spring, Toyotomi onsen, by taxi. This village has only one taxi so you have to book for one in advance. It takes 15 minutes to reach the multifunctional municipal Fureai Center. It seems that the hot spring here was discovered while boring for petroleum. In the past, it used to be called Abura onsen (oil hot spring). The locals will tell you that its healing properties include treating burns and joint problems of the elderly. This therapeutic hot spring is definitely worth a visit! Return to the train station and take the Soya Main Line to the terminal, Wakkanai - the northernmost station in Japan. Visit the Tenpoku No Yu hot spring in Wakkanai – the 41st of this trip. Its spring water is clear and will leave you feeling refreshed and energetic. As you wrap up this wonderful 3500km trip - which started from the southernmost point of Kyushu, Makurazaki, and passed through Tottori and Sendai, to the northernmost point of Wakkanai - visit one last hot spring, the 42nd one. Minato No Yu is a panoramic hot spring from where you can see the port and the Sea of Okhotsk.