This week, we explore the world of Japanese folklore and myths, and visit the hometowns of fairy tales and legends. You will discover some interesting facts behind the origin of these folktales. You will also uncover interesting sights and places based on these tales, and meet people who claim to be related to these heroes and legends. Along the way, feast on unique delicacies and visit some delightful spas.
We first travel to Suruga, where the legend of Taketori Monogatari or Kaguya-hime (The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter) originated. According to the folktale, Kaguya-hime was born in a bamboo stalk, and was later found by an old bamboo cutter. Kaguya-hime was beautiful and many nobles wanted to marry her, but she went to the moon instead. To find out more about this fairy tale, start your adventure at Shin-Fuji Station in Shizuoka Prefecture, which features a beautiful view of Mt. Fuji. Travel to Suruga, the hometown of Kaguya-hime, by taking the single-track Gakunan Railway. The local line is nicknamed Kaguya-Fuji. Stop at Hina Station, named after the Hina Matsuri (Doll Festival). From the station, take a 10-minute walk to Take-Tori Park. This picturesque park features many bamboo trees, transporting you back to the Heian period. It is said that Suruga is the birthplace of Kaguya-hime, and she was supposedly born in a bamboo grove in this park. Many locals in the area believe the story is true and that Kaguya-hime really existed. Interestingly, the locals will tell you that contrary to what has been written in books, Kaguya-hime climbed up to the top of Mt. Fuji, and finally became an angel there; she did not go to the moon. If you are lucky, you may even get to meet the old bamboo cutter’s “descendant”, who owns the park and lives next to it. There is also a shrine nearby, where you can pay your respects to the old bamboo cutter.
Explore the streets and have lunch at a restaurant Kakuyama which serves fresh fish from Suruga Bay at a reasonable price. Besides sushi, you can even try the popular dish Kaguya-hime chazuke, where tea and stock are poured over various ingredients. The aromatic dish includes bamboo shoot (take) and chicken (tori) and is a speciality of Fuji City, thanks to the legend of Kaguya-hime. Next, travel by train and bus for about one hour and 15 minutes to Sengokuhara Hakone hotel, where you can stay the night. The hotel is based on the concept of the Taketori Monogatari legend, and thus you will see lots of trees, bamboo, and even a waterwheel. The elegant hotel is expensive, but ideal for tracing the folktale of Kaguya-hime. It has 10 guest rooms, all of which come with spacious bathrooms. For dinner, tuck into some colourful kaiseki, matsutake dobinmushi and tilefish.
The next day, go in search of the folk legend of Kintaro. He is often pictured carrying an axe on his shoulder and riding on a bear. The tale goes that he was a retainer of famous warrior Yorimitsu and later became a general. He became famous as he got rid of a ghost called Shutendoshi. Go to Kintaro’s hometown Oyama in Shizuoka to discover some surprising facts about this folktale. You will reach Kintoki Park after a 20-minute walk from the station. Go to the Kintoki Shrine, which has been built to commemorate Kintaro. Here too, the locals believe that Kintaro was a real person. There is a 1000-year-old axe here, which many claim was used by Kintaro. You can see an imprint of Kintaro’s hand on a stone, and even read about the legend and the folk hero’s biography. According to this, Kintaro was actually called Kintoki Sakada. He was born and raised in this area and died at the age of 54 in Shoocho, Okayama. Visit a charcoal kiln next to Kintoki Park, where bamboo charcoal is made by burning Shizuoka's bamboo for 15 days. Made in the shape of bamboo, it is ideal as a decorative piece.
From here, you can go to Mt. Kintoki where Kintaro is supposed to have practised sumo wrestling with a bear. However, do note that Mt. Kintoki is hard to climb as it is steep, so it is better to take a taxi halfway up, and climb the rest of the way from Oyama. As you climb the mountain, you will come across many beautiful flowers, one of which is synurus pungens. After climbing for about an hour, you will reach the top of Mt. Kintoki, from where you enjoy a panoramic and picturesque view of Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashino. There is a famous spot at the top of Mt. Kintoki's top – “Kintoki's daughter's tea-house” - called Kintoki chaya. Here you can meet this “daughter”, who actually got her nickname at the age of 17, when the then-Crown Prince had climbed Mt. Kintoki. Since then, she has been greeting visitors on top of the mountain. While you are here, try some of the delicious Kintoki soba with mountain vegetables, which will energise you after your arduous climb.
Our next adventure takes us to Takachiho, where mythical gods used to reside thousands of years ago. Located in Miyazaki Prefecture in Kyushu, it is popular among tourists. Start by visiting the Ama no Iwato Shrine, where sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami is believed to have hidden in a stone cave. According to Japanese mythology, when Amaterasu Omikami shut herself in the cave in anger, the world was plunged into darkness. Several gods gathered and discussed how to make her leave the cave. They organised a big party. Upon hearing the loud noises, Amaterasu Omikami peeked out to see what was going on, and light and peace returned to the world. Many people come to the shrine to pray to the goddess and see the famous cave. Do note that visitors are not allowed to take any photographs of the place. You can however go to Ama no Yasukawara, the place where the gods had held their discussion. From the shrine, walk for 10 minutes along a stream to reach this special site. Nowadays, it is known as a power spot, where you can make a wish by piling up stones.
Next, take a taxi and go to the Takachiho onsen. The refreshing open-air bath will heal your body and your heart. After this, grab a bite at Onokono chaya, which is popular among visitors. Its speciality is trout sushi, and seema from the streams of Takachiho which is grilled with salt. Later, rent a boat and head to Takachiho Gorge, which has been formed by the lava from Mt. Aso. Enjoy the beautiful and mysterious view as you go around the ravine. Next, head to the Kami-no-Ya (God’s House) inn, which is decorated with folk craft. For dinner, you can feast on local mountain vegetables, fresh rainbow trout from the river, Takachiho beef and Karuga udon. After dinner, watch a unique dancing ritual called Yokagura, which originated in Takachiho. Take the hotel transport to the Takachiho Shrine – five minutes away from the inn - to watch the Yokagura performance. It is held in the shrine’s Kaguraden (dance hall), and draws many visitors. Takachiho's Yokagura tells the story of Ama no Iwato. Normally performed all over Takachiho for the whole night from the months of November to February, at this Kaguraden, it is staged throughout the year for visitors. Be enthralled by the powerful and aesthetic dancing which makes you feel as if the gods have come down to earth. Takachiho's Yokagura, which has been designated as a national intangible cultural asset, is definitely worth watching.
The next morning, go to Kunimigaoka. Book a taxi and enjoy the 15-minute drive along a mountain path. Kunimigaoka boasts a natural view of a sea of clouds. With an altitude of 513m, you will be able to see Mt. Aso and Takachiho. After this, make you way to Gohogama near the Ama no Iwato Shrine. It is a speciality shop of Takachihoyaki. If you make an appointment, you can try your hand at making Noh masks, and painting pottery masks of Kagura. The finished products make a perfect souvenir.
Our next adventure in search of the origins of folktales takes us to Usuki in Oita Prefecture. From Nobeoka Station, travel by train and bus for two hours to go to the hometown of Kicchomu, who was famous for his witty talk. His name was actually Hirota Kichiemon. Kicchomu was a local village headman during the Edo period who lived a simple life. He became a supporter of poor people and did his best to help the villagers and farmers. His humour brought cheer and happiness to people and his “witty chats” have been passed down from generation to generation. You can visit his birthplace, the site of his house, his grave and even his family temple. This place, Fugen-zenji, has been founded for 700 years and it is a famous spot for autumn leaves. If you want proof that Kicchomu actually existed, there is a mortuary tablet from 400 years ago which has been enshrined in the main hall. He and his wife Ohema were buried together.
Later, as you explore the shopping district of this town, you will find several things related to Kicchomu. Examples are handmade Ohema manju (a Japanese delicacy), and even organic tea, which is a speciality. The price of the tea, which has been produced in Kicchomu’s hometown, ranges from 1000 yen (S$15.30) to 1500 yen (S$ 22.90). The aromatic Kicchomu tea has been cultivated in fertile and sunny mountain villages. Interestingly, you can also meet a “modern Kicchomu” who resides in a thatched roof house in Kicchomu Land! He happily shares several funny stories originally told by the legendary Kicchomu. There are a total of 230 such hilarious tales to be enjoyed. End your trip on a delicious note by trying Kicchomu's favourite dish, dangojiru, which comprises flattened dango (dumplings) and vegetables stewed in miso.
