| |
The coastal adventure on Japan Hour continues with a trip around the Izu Peninsula, stopping at the small Silver Ocean Hotel in Atami. Rooms at this hotel are both Japanese and Western styled to suit all generations. Change into the house-coats (Yukata) and try out the baths at the hotel. This hotel has four different types of baths including a private bath which is located in an annex building and where you can soak in the scenery as well. The southern Izu Ocean is yours to admire for as long as you like.You can also relax in the outdoor bath and a tearoom style bath with a ceramic tub. At this hotel, you’ll probably get a chance to size up your dinner, fresh from the sea before meeting it once more on the dinner table.
Dinner served in the large dining hall and is mix of Western and Japanese. Your mouth will enjoy different cultures and flavours from the variety of dishes which run from sashimi to steak.
The freshly caught fish are prepared by the owner himself. When in season, grunt is as delicious as sea bream and spring broom served sashimi style. Both are a feast for the palate and the eyes. On the menu too is deep fried Kasago, a plump white-meat fish .
Retire early to wake to a silver sea waiting just outside the window and head for the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula that has been beckoning. It doesn’t take long and the views that greet you will range from amazing, to beautiful Irozaki, lies on the southern tip of the Izu Peninsula. The view from the 60m high cliff reveals the Pacific's harsh waves and further beyond, is a magnificent scene of the Seven Izu islands on the horizon.
Next, head to the historical town of Matsuzaki which is to the west of Izu. Stop off at Kichijo which is some 20 minutes away. While waiting for the transfer at the bus stop for the ride to Matsuzaki, check out the shop Hitoiro. It specializes in homemade bread and delicious looking sweets, from chocolates to chocolate cheesecake.
Matsuzaki was built at the end of the Edo era and it is a city with square tiled walls. It was a brilliant design idea to prevent fires from spreading as the city is buffeted by strong westerly winds. Everyone is used to it, except visitors.
The flower garden is Matsuzaki's must-see spot in the spring with carpets of flowers created from old rice fields turned into flower gardens. The flower field is as big as the Tokyo Dome and are a riot of colours. From the 1st to 5th of May you can pick as many flowers as you want so you can take Matsuzaki's spring home with you.
Continue by bus and head towards to Dogashima where the huge crashing waves have created strangely shaped rocks. Being by the coast, Dogashima offers a secret treat at mealtimes – so bring an empty stomach. There is a special restaurant where diners enjoy eating by the ocean. The menu offers fresh seafood of course. The stone-grilled seafood on rice with fresh seafood from Suruga Bay looks delicious and is delicious, with steam from the grilled dish bringing up a wonderful aroma.
Continue after lunch to Toi whilst gazing at Mt. Fuji which is a fabulous view as it looks like Mt. Fuji is floating on the ocean.
Toi, is a city that was prosperous from gold mining during the Edo Era. It's said the hot spring was found while mining for gold,and that was the beginning of the Toi Hot Springs. It's big and very clean, but most of all it offers a magnificent view of Western Izu. Having gone from eastern Izu in Hokkawa, to Southern Izu and western Izu and all the hot springs in between, the spring-time journey now turns to another adventure - Ise city in Mie Prefecture. In the Edo Era when people spoke of travelling, it was to visit Ise. The family of travelers begin their holiday heading towards the Shima Peninsula in Mie, with a beautiful shoreline to appreciate and a view of Ise Bay. The destination is South Ise.
Catch a 10 minute ride on the Kintetsu Express Train to Toba which is known for beautiful scenery and cultured pearls harvested from floating rafts which can be seen out at sea.
It is at Toba where you can catch a bus from the main terminal to continue traveling south around the Shima Peninsula. There are many gorgeous bays and panoramic views along the way. Stop and change buses at the Spanish Village, and again at Ugata, before you finally arrive at Daiozaki, the tip of the cape. This is where two currents meet and fishing thrives. If you’re hungry try some of the dried fish being grilled. From there, it’s time to hike to the lighthouse which is open to the public, and for good reason too! Visitors get to enjoy a panoramic 360 degree view of the Shima Peninsula. Stop for a meal at a restaurant owned by a man whose parents were fishermen and so, his dishes are based on traditional fishermen's cuisine using fish caught on the day. Their signature dish called Tekonesushi (hand mixed sushi). Fresh seafood is marinated with soy sauce, sake, and sesame sauce then served with vinegared rice. This "fisherman's bowl" has a variety of marinated sashimi with wasabi served on warm rice. This yellowtail chunky soup is a common dish for fishermen. It tastes exquisite with tender chunks of yellowtail. Take a well-deserved rest on the bus as the journey continues around the Shima Peninsula heading west from Daiozaki.
To enjoy the beach get off at Koshika. There you can meet women divers who spend their day catching Ise lobster, abalone, turban, and sea urchin. The Shima Peninsula is the birthplace of women divers. As rhe sun sets pull in to Port Oza where it's faster to travel by water to next destination – Hamajima. It’s a 10 minute ride to Hamajima on the opposite shore to Hotel Shimasekitei which was built facing the shore, so that all the rooms have sea views.
The sound of waves is also apparent in the rooms which are Japanese style. Dinner comes with fresh local seafood and guests can choose their main dish for their set. But being in Ise, local lobsters are an excellent choice especially as sashimi to enjoy the sweet, thick meat. Fresh abalone sashimi is another good main course available on the special spring package,offering 7 main dishes including steak and crab. Every dish is carefully selected by the head chef who also offers with each set, a tempura dish such as battered bamboo shoots, rape blossoms, butterbur sprouts, and rare whitebait filled with roe. Normally dinner is served in the dining hall, but a private room is also available at 1,050 yen (S$ 13.9) per person.
The next day catch a taxi to head to Southern Ise on the opposite side to have a fisherman's experience of net fishing. Hop on a boat with a fisherman to reach the nearby fishing grounds. Pull in the nets set the night before to discover, octopus and different fish Savour the catch by eating by the ocean that slice and grill yourself.
Our last stop is Hakodate. The left side of Hokkaido's southerntip is called the Matsumae Peninsula. Head for Esashi from Hakodate by taking a tram for a five minute ride to arrive at Shinkawacho. Look out for the Jiyu (Free) market which is a morning market.and one of the three biggest markets along with Nakajima Renbai. There are about 60 stores and most offer seafood that attract even professional chefs. The Ichibatei (market eatery) is located inside the Ichiba market. The most popular and delicious dish here is the mini rice bowls. It takes a while since the chef buys the food after the order is made.
Take the train after lunch on the Esashi Line from Hakodate. Go around Mt. Hakodate and take in the scenery which includes the Tsugaru Strait. Stop at Kikonai Station and hop on a bus travelling south which includes stops along the way such as the Shiriuchi Hot Spring, the oldest hot spring in Hokkaido found in the Kamakura Era.It was discovered while gold mining and is over 800 years old. Continue on by bus south to Cape Shirakami which is 45 minutes away from the hot spring entrance. Cape Shirakami is the southern tip of the Matsumae Peninsula or Hokkaido's southern tip. It is here at you can also catch the train that runs under the sea for a 19.2 km to Tappi.
At the Cape visit Japan's northern-most castle town of Matsumae. Nearby, is the oldest inn in the area called Yano with many attractive packages and views of the castle town. Dinner is served in the dining hall with 15 dishes including wild abalone from Matsumae which are small but flavourful, when eaten raw and with a cup of sake.
There is also steamed trout on a cherry leaf on the special spring menu since the area is famous for cherry blossoms. The Matsumae Castle, which is famous for cherry blossoms was built at the end of the Edo Era to guard the North. There are 10,000 trees of more than 250 types of cherry blossoms flowering for more than one month with the ocean just behind. The best time is the first week of May.
There are also other trees such as the Japanese witch hazel which are common in regions with heavy snowfalls and once the yellow string-like flowers or Mansaku blossom, it signals the beginning of spring. Leave the castle town and head north to Esashi. In the Edo era, Esashi flourished as a trading port for southern Japan and as a herring fishing port. This town created Hokkaido's culture. Visit attractions such as the Herring Palace which looks more like a castle and built to Edo Era size. It’s in the hands of eight generations of the Yokoyama family who have been seafood wholesalers since the Edo period.
The building was rebuilt in the Meiji era using cypress and without nails and the ocean used to lap the back of the house allowing ships to dock. You can also taste herring buckwheat noodles here using recipes passed down for generations. Also worth a visit is Esashi Oiwake Hall to discover Esashi's mainstream culture which includes origins to the Shinshu Nakasen Road folksong with its unique melody made up of 8 types of tunes and takes more than 5 years to sing correctly. |
|
|
 |
