We continue on our journey in search of snow views in Japan during midwinter. After enjoying the natural beauty of Kushiro Shitsugen in Hokkaido, return to Toro Station and take the Senmo Main Line to an inn where you can stay the night. Alight at Kayanuma Station, where you will greeted by many Japanese cranes. The stationmaster started feeding Japanese cranes in 1958. Although it is an unattended station now, the cranes still come here.
A car from your inn will pick you up from the station. The only spa inn located in Kushiro Shitsugen National Park, Ikoi no Ie Kayanuma is 10 minutes away from the station. The rooms are cosy, while the spa is a perfect treat during cold weather. For dinner, you can choose between various selections. The meat cuisine features a local speciality, lamb steak. There are also other delicacies of Hokkaido, such as tempura of pond smelt caught in Lake Toro. It is said that eating this prevents osteoporosis.
The next day, take the first train to the Sea of Okhotsk, where you can get a spectacular view of drift ice. As the train passes Shiretoko-Shari Station and runs along the shoreline, you can catch a glimpse of drift ice covering the Sea of Okhotsk. Alight at the terminal, Abashiri, and take a taxi to an icebreaker dock called Aurora Terminal. To get a good view of drift ice, take the Aurorago ship which cruises along the Sea of Okhotsk. If you’re lucky, together with drift ice, you may also get to see a Steller's sea eagle, which is said to be the biggest wild bird in Japan.
The next trip in midwinter takes place along the Iiyama railway line. Start by taking the Shinkansen to Nagano. Then, travel by train along the Iiyama Line, which starts from Toyono Station and ends at Echigo Kawaguchi Station in Niigata. During the train ride, you will see beautiful snow views and other scenic spots such as the Chikuma River. Alight at Iiyama Station, where you will see the Shichifuku no Kane (seven happiness bell). People believe that if you ring this bell, one of your seven wishes will come true. Iiyama is known as the “Little Kyoto of Snow Country” and boasts many temples. Drop by a restaurant called Rokubei, which sells “legendary handmade soba” called Tomikura. Made from buckwheat which is cultivated in this snow country, the leaves of thistle are added as thickener. This dish owes its “legendary” label to the fact that only a few people make this soba now. You can also try the tarakabune-zen set, which is served in a tray and comes with stewed beef tendon and other local delicacies.
Resume your journey on Iiyama Line and alight at Togari Nozawaonsen Station. Take a 20-minute bus ride to Nozawa Onsen, located in the north of Nagano. During winter, it attracts many skiers and visitors. Head to an inn called Tofuya. You’ll be surprised to know that it is actually a tofu shop which also serves as a guest house. This homey inn is known for its tasty tofu cuisine. Nozawa Onsen has 13 public baths, which you can take your time to visit. Examples are the free Kuma no Tearaiyu which some say was discovered by a bear; Oyu, located in the centre of the spa town, and which has been built from timber; and the cosy Nakao no Yu.
After having your fill of the various public baths, enjoy a dinner of family-style tofu cuisine. Domestic soybean and Nozawa's water are used to make the tofu and no addictives are added. Many people love the nostalgic taste of the inn’s tofu. The dishes include oboro tofu, fresh yuba and soybean milk shabu-shabu. If you wish, you can also order local Shinshu beef. Enjoy this delicious meal with some hot sake. The next morning, breakfast is served buffet-style and there is lots of fresh tofu for you to savour.
After breakfast, travel along the Iiyama Line again and get off at Morimiyanohara Station. It seems that on 12 February, 1944, the station achieved a record snow depth of 7.85m. There is a monument outside the station which commemorates this event. Return to the station and pick up some food to eat on the train. You can buy some anbo, made from rice flour. It tastes like mochi (rice cake). Get on the train heading to Echigo Kawaguchi Station. As the train enters Niigata Prefecture, you will see Chikuma River again, which is actually called Shinano River in Niigata. End your midwinter journey along the Iiyama Line – spanning 100km – by alighting at the terminal, Echigo Kawaguchi Station.
We next visit Yamadera for beautiful snow views. Travel on the Senzan Line from Yamagata to Yamadera. Alight at Yamadera Station and head to a famous spot, the Yamadera temple, also known as Hojusan Risshakuji. On the way, do buy some “powerful” konjac, which is stewed with a soy sauce-based stock. It derives its name from the fact that it is supposed to energise you, especially before you climb the 1,015 steps at the temple. It is said that Jikaku Daishi brought konjac from China as a herb, and it has since become a speciality of the area. The Hojusan Risshakuji temple was built by Jikaku Daishi 1,100 years ago. After you’ve made the arduous climb up to Godaido – with the help of a guide - you will be rewarded with a wonderful snow view at an altitude of 460m. The stunning scene looks like an ink and wash painting. After this, go to a Japanese restaurant near Yamadera Station for lunch. You can order the Shokado bento (lunch box) called Fuga. It comprises mainly vegetables and Unryu sesame tofu.
After lunch, take a bus from Yamadera Station to Zao Onsen in Yamagata, which is famous for its soft rime. Head to the Ki no Sato Japanese-style inn first. Lodgers are offered free hot red bean soup and rice flour dumplings as a welcome treat. The inn features 22 guest rooms, from where you get a nice view of Mt. Zao. If you have some time before dinner, explore the town and visit a shop called Kokeshiya. Kokeshi dolls are famous in Yamagata. You can try drawing a Kokeshi doll in this shop and you’ll even get to take it home as a souvenir. Head back to the inn for dinner. Dishes include hiyajiru, which comprises Yamagata's specialty, wild vegetables and yukina; and a hot pot called Ki no Sato Daikichi Nabe, consisting of mountain vegetables and mushrooms.
Following this delicious dinner, head out to see soft rime at night. Go to the ropeway station, and climb up a ski slope. You will soon be able to see the beautiful soft rime. Often called snow monster, the soft rime is lit up to create a dreamy atmosphere. The next day, take the ropeway again to see the soft rime in bright sunlight. Transfer to another ropeway to go to the peak. Admire the view of the evergreens and the snow from an altitude of 1,500m. It is a magnificent sight indeed.
