We continue on our journey to secret spas in winter. From Tsuchiyu Onsen, Fukushima, take a taxi to a spa, Sagamiya Ryokan. It takes 40 minutes to reach the hotel, which is located between Fukushima and Aizu. Founded in 1960, this spa in the mountains is a popular spot among climbers. The 10-mat Japanese rooms will make you feel right at home, and offer a panoramic view of Mt. Adatara. Slip into some straw sandals and go to the open-air bath. Its milky spring water is perfect to warm you up on a chilly day, and will leave you feeling refreshed. After the spa, enjoy a delicious dinner, which is served in your room. The simple 18-dish meal comprises local mountain vegetables and river fish. Feast on jidake (wild bamboo shoot); raw carp with konjac, a creative dish eaten with vinegared miso; grilled sweet-fish; marinated seema; and beef shabu-shabu.
The next day, after a healthy breakfast in the hall, go snow trekking to an old beech forest, which is about 900m away. Don some snowshoes and walk around the snow mountains. This activity is free and all trekking equipment is provided. At the beech forest, look out for a 300-year-old tree called "the father of forest". This mossy tree is also known as "the seeding beech", and it is said that the beech trees in the area are its “descendants”. After this interesting discovery, head back to the spa and end your trip to Fukushima by taking another hot spring bath, while enjoying the beautiful snow view.
For the next journey, travel from Tokyo to Nagano and change to the Nagano Dentetsu line. Alight at Suzaka Station, which is 30 minutes away from Nagano. Explore the town, where the silk industry thrived from the Meiji to the Showa period. There are still some old storehouses located around the town. Visit Tanakahonke Hakubutsukan, which used to be tycoon Tanaka Honke’s mansion. The estate spans 3,000 tsubos and boasts 20 storehouses. Previously said to be the greatest house in North Shinano, it is now a museum open to the public. The Tanaka family became rich by trading rapeseed oil, and the family treasures – dating from the middle of the Edo period to the Showa period - are exhibited in the storehouses. The museum even houses some cute toys which were popular from the Meiji to the Taisho period. Many of these toys have been well preserved and look brand new. Besides getting a glimpse into the Tanaka family’s modern living style, you can also see wedding clothes from the era and precious Hina dolls. The three remaining gardens of the estate – where different flowers bloom each season - have also been well-kept. Visit a restaurant here and try a rare delicacy - copper pheasant mochi soup. It is said that the lord of the Suzaka clan has also tried this dish. The recipe has been reproduced from Tanaka’s old documents. This light dish is served throughout the year and costs 1,200 yen (S$ 18.75). Continue to hang around the area and visit another storehouse, where you can try your hand at making Hina dolls using cocoons. It serves as a nice souvenir of the trip.
Next, take a bus to Takayama Onsenkyo, which is dotted with spas. First go to Warabi onsen, which has an entrance fee of 300 yen (S$4.68) for each adult. The comfortable spa offers superb views. On a clear day, you can see the scenic Northern Alps. If you’re hungry, go to a cafe, Oyaki Chaya Tachiberi, which serves oyaki. The ingredients are wrapped in dough and steamed instead of baked. Flavours of this nostalgic bun include radish and apple. Each costs 110 yen (S$1.71). After this traditional treat, make your way to Yamada Onsen terminal, and change to a winter shuttle bus heading to Goshiki Onsen, one of Shinshu’s secret spas. Enjoy the beautiful winter view during the bus journey. For example, you will see the 180 metre-high Yataki waterfall, which gets frozen in winter. Goshiki Onsen is located in a quiet ravine. The inn uses lamps as lighting, creating a romantic and relaxing atmosphere, plus its rooms feature beautiful snow views. But the highlight of the inn is its hot spring, where the water changes to five different colours – transparent, green, sky blue, white and black – according to the weather and temperature. Soak in this unique and therapeutic cypress bath while admiring the gorgeous winter view.
Dinner is prepared by the host and his grandson, who has learned cooking for six years in Tokyo. The meal includes many types of local mountain vegetables. Rape blossoms and butterbur are served as appetizers. One of the specialities is deep-fried freshwater crab. Caught in summer and stored for winter consumption, it is crunchy and aromatic. Other delicacies include raw Shinshu salmon, uncured ham bozushi, steamed citrus pepper soba with sticky bean sauce, mountain vegetable tempura and even apple tempura! The next day, enjoy a morning bath before having a delicious breakfast comprising mountain vegetables.
Our next trip takes us to a detached inn in the remote mountains in Niigata. Travel from Tokyo through Niigata and change to a local line. Alight at Echigoshimoseki Station and go to Sekikawa-mura, Niigata. Explore Sekikawa, which used to be a posting station in the Edo period. You can see still glimpses of the past here, such as nostalgic houses and canals. Visit a mansion which was built in 1817. Sit around the hearth and have some Japanese green tea and seasonal sweets, which are served to visitors. There’s a shop here where you can see how a nekochigura (cat house made of straw) – a speciality of Sekikawa - is made. It takes five days to make a king-sized one. There is also a product corner here, where you can get many delicacies. You can buy items like rice balls, local chicken eggs with two yolks, charcoal-grilled wild sweet-fish, and mountain vegetable miso soup. Choose what takes your fancy and have you meal at a free rest station nearby.
After this, head to Takanosu Onsen by cab. However, do note that if it is snowing too heavily, one can’t drive there, and some people thus opt to walk there. If you are lucky enough to take a taxi, it will drop you at a car park. You will have to then cross a suspension bridge to reach the hot spring and the inn. Do walk slowly to avoid slipping. Kikuya is one of two inns in Takanosu Onsen. With mountains at the back and a river in front, it is surrounded by beautiful nature. Founded 43 years ago, it is well known for its warm reception. It has eight detached guest rooms, which feature nice snow views. Each Japanese-style guest room comprises a living room, bedroom and dining room and includes a kotatsu. There are three baths in total, including an open-air bath facing the mountains and a spacious private inner bath.
After indulging yourself in the private open-air bath, tuck into a luxurious feast in the comfort of your room. Dishes served include domonko raw seafood; Japanese amberjack; asahi buta (pork) soybean milk pot; koshihikari (rice); and deep fried mountain vegetables such as mizuna, fern and butterbur sprouts. The next morning, after breakfast, end your trip to Takanosu Onsen by visiting a field – 20 minutes away – where you can see some beautiful wild swans.