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    5 Sep 2009

    Seeking Cool Air~Visiting Open-Air Bath (Pt 2)
     
     
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    This week, we continue our journey of visiting various hot springs and indulging in panoramic baths with scenic views. At the Hama no Yu inn in Izu, change into a yukata and visit the hotel’s spacious open-air bath – reserved only for women. It boasts panoramic views of the sea, and you can even see Izu Oshima island. Other well-designed baths in the hotel include a hinoki bath on the 8th floor, and even a popular scenic cave bath with mikan. For dinner, start your meal with some colourful bite-sized appetizers such as smooth and savoury turban shell baked with almonds, and tender abalone steamed with sake. Other fresh seafood items in the luxurious meal include alfonsino stewed in sweet sauce, splendid alfonsino shabu shabu, steamed king crab and turban shell kamameshi.

    The next morning, indulge in a luxurious private bath, while enjoying the refreshing sea breeze and the sound of waves. Following the healing bath, have a sashimi breakfast on the terrace, facing the sea. After leaving the hotel, take a five-minute walk along the seashore towards Misaki no Yakata. Here, you can see several hina no tsurushi kazari (hanging decorations made with traditional Japanese dolls), related to an old custom of Inatori. Next, take a five-minute scenic train ride along the sea from Izu-Inatori Station to Imaihama-Kaigan Station. Head to a municipal day spa near the sea. Shaped like a boat, Sunship Imaihama is an open-air bath designed like a pool. This bath is suitable for those who get sunburned after swimming. Walk along a mountain path and you will soon reach the open-air bath built on a cliff. You will feel as if you are floating on the sea, plus it boasts a fantastic sea breeze. The cosy and refreshing open-air bath with a beautiful sea view is the perfect way to end your trip.

    The next adventure takes place in Okutone, where you can enjoy beautiful ravine views and panoramic open-air baths. Travel from Ueno for about 2.5 hours and alight at Minakami Station. Minakami onsen is located at the headstream of Tone River. Its charm is not confined to the spa; clear streams and mountains also form a picturesque view. You can travel in style by taking a horse carriage from the station to the spa town. Enjoy the atmosphere of the town to the fullest as you ride around the town slowly. After the ride, go to Kimama-ya, a shop selling breads and cookies. Its speciality is cookies made with local dried hen of the woods. Hen of the woods from Minakami is pulverised and mixed with dough and baked. Savour the unique taste of the cookie which is aromatic with a strong taste of mushroom. You can even buy some as a souvenir. Explore the town and visit a nostalgic game centre, where you can relive your childhood days by playing games such as pinball and shooting. After this, head to the first bath of this trip. Yuterume Tanigawa is a municipal spa which looks like a mountain hut. Its cosy open-air bath is surrounded by greenery. You can also opt for a scenic forest bath, accompanied by a great view of the maple trees and stream, and the soothing murmur of the brook.

    Before heading to the next scenic spot, have a meal of delicious char and ayu fish at a restaurant near the river. Run by a couple, the cosy eatery serves fresh fish and boasts a delightful ambience. Next, make your way to Tanigawadake Ropeway and take a gondola. Admire the scenery as you make your way up 1000m to Tenjindaira, where you change to a lift which will take you to the peak. Tenjin-touge has an altitude of 1500m. Walk to an aerial panoramic spot nearby, from where you can see Mt. Tanigawa. Next, head to Dogen no Taki, where you can stay the night. Take a route bus to the upper reach of Tone River. After a 40-minute drive, you will reach the hotel, Dogenso. You can see a forest where wild raccoon dogs live from here, so the hotel is also known as the raccoon dog hotel. You can choose to stay in a 15-mat room on the second floor, which has a nice view. For a refreshing bath before dinner, go to an open-air bath, Nio no Yu, located near the origin of Tone River. You can enjoy the unexplored nature of Okutone from this quiet and serene spa, which is two hours away from Tokyo. The exclusive women’s bath here features a delightful view of the stream. For dinner, treat yourself to a feast of Okutone's seasonal food from the mountains. Dishes include sashimi, mountain vegetables, yuba, white hen of the woods, bud of aralia elata with wasabi soy sauce, and char sugata-zukuri. After this luxurious meal, go to the observation room, from where you can see foxes and raccoon dogs.

    The next morning, after breakfast, head to Naramata Lake, where you can do some canoeing. You can arrange for a tour guide to pick you up from the hotel. The lake is surrounded by gorgeous scenery. You will receive some simple instructions before you can start canoeing. Row across the beautiful lake, and you will soon reach a stream called Itamesawa, where natural mountain water flows. Complete your trip by visiting another panoramic bath. Takaragawa onsen, Osenkaku has four baths on both sides of the river. Spanning 4.7 hectares, it is said to be Japan's biggest open-air spa. The biggest bath, with an area of 1.9 hectares, is called Kodakara no Yu. The rustic bath that merges with the stream offers a nice view of the ravine.

    Our next spa adventure takes place in Shinshu. Travel by a local line to Nagano and visit Saku, a natural town which features the Chikuma River. It is a popular place for fishing. Go to Sanmon-dori and Nirita San Yakushiji, where there is an open market on the second Saturday of every month. You can pick up some interesting souvenirs and snacks from the street stalls here. Visit a farm which cultivates fish in fields, before trying Saku’s traditional country cuisine at one of the restaurants. After lunch, make your way to a bath with a beautiful view. Asashina onsen, Honoka no Yu is a spacious panoramic open-air bath which is popular among locals. It is said that if you take this bath, you will live a long life. From the bath, you can enjoy the view of Mt. Asama and other mountains. This panoramic bath is only available in the summer. There is also a separate open-air bath for women, which is equally cosy and spacious. After this, travel by the local line to Koumi. A pick-up car will take you from the station to Yatsugatake, which is well known for its several panoramic open-air baths. Yatsugatake has an altitude of 2700m and offers different views, depending on the season. It is especially popular in summer and attracts many visitors. You can stay at Koumi Reex Hotel, located at the foot of Yatsugatake, at an altitude of 1452m. The comfortable Western-style rooms offer a pleasant view from the terrace. Go to the panoramic bath with an amazing view of the greenery and mountains. It will make you feel as if you’re in paradise – in the clouds! After this scenic bath “in the sky”, tuck into a delicious Japanese feast comprising crab steamed with barley rice and grated yam, flatfish, tuna, young yellowtail, tomato tofu with consomme soup, Shinshu salmon sashimi, and grilled Tateshina beef. Alternatively, you can choose the Western course which features beef steak.

     
    For ladies who want some privacy, women-only open-air baths are available at some places and inns
    The open-air bath at Sunship Imaihama is suitable for those who suffer from sunburn

    The next day, go to the Matsubara Lake tourist information centre and sign up for a tour to Unjo no Yu. Armed with a map, and with the help of a local guide, walk along a mountain path to Honzawa onsen, which is two hours away. Along the way, you can admire the natural surroundings and interesting finds such as luminous moss which reflects light, and highland plants like primula japonica. If you are lucky, you can even catch a glimpse of Japanese serows. After two hours, you will be able to view the summit of Mt. Io, under which there is an open-air bath. Soon, you will reach Honzawa onsen, a lodge that looks like a hut. You can have a light meal here. Try its popular curry rice cooked by firewood. You can also enjoy a bath with the aroma of sulphur here. Next, continue on your journey by foot along the mountain path to Unjo no Yu. At an altitude of 2150m, you can get an excellent view of the surroundings. This healing spa with the view of Mt. Io was founded during the Edo period, and features milky spring water. End your trip by soaking in the delightful open-air bath, which is a gift from the nature.

     
     
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