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SINGAPORE: There were some horrified gasps when I first sounded people out about their views on fashion’s latest obsession: The power shoulder.
“So ugly,” pronounced one of my subjects, before launching into a tirade about these confounded style revivals and how they were bringing back all she thought was “dead and buried” in the ’80s, including an excess of neon in a single outfit, scrunchies, and — last but not least — the aforementioned big shoulders.
“What’s next? Poodle perms?”
While it is understandable that thoughts of the reappearance of jackets with gargantuan shoulder pads should strike fear into the hearts of those who lived — and dressed — through the ’80s, the current iteration of the power shoulder is nothing like what the inimitable Joan Collins donned in the classic television drama, Dynasty, complete with bouffant hairdo and contouring make-up.
Fashion director Daniel Boey, 43, explained: “The new power shoulder is more subtle and tasteful than its ’80s predecessor. It’s not so much about shoulder pads but rather, about a bold, strong-shouldered look. The new shape is more curvilinear, sculpted and geometric.”
First spotted on the Spring 2009 Balmain runway last September, the look was swiftly adopted by celebrities, models, fashion editors and other fearless sorts, who snapped up the label’s peaked-shouldered sparkly dresses and militaristic jackets.
The trend shows no sign of abating this season, with several design houses, from Gianfranco Ferre to Givenchy, and Maison Martin Margiela to Marc Jacobs, presenting their versions of the strong shoulder for their fall collections.
Locally, some designers and retailers are offering their own, more affordable takes on the look.
For design collective Reckless Ericka, this translates to a women’s jacket with double-layered sleeves and an asymmetrical collar, rendered in a tribal-looking fabric.
Afton Chen, 22, one-fourth of Reckless Ericka, said: “The jacket is a juxtaposition of new and old styles. While (this is) a slight nod to the ’80s, we used two layers for the sleeves, instead of using shoulder pads. So, the shoulders are accentuated but not exaggerated.”
Those who prefer having the liberty of removing their power shoulders at any time — or when they get tired of people staring — can opt for the “shirt-sack” by N.nchal.nt, a local label stocked at multi-brand store Front Row.
The designer recycled a vintage, button-down shirt to create a bag with wide straps, which can be worn over a top to create the illusion of souped-up shoulders.
One fashion lover who is definitely not giving this look the cold shoulder is Jasmine Tuan, an in-house senior media designer for Zouk.
The 30-year-old, who also co-owns multi-label store, Blackmarket, recalled how she coveted the Ascending Lumbar jacket (so called because of the zip detailing on the back) by Filipino designer Gian Romano the moment she laid eyes on it.
Said Jasmine: “The broad, pointed shoulders reminded me of the Spring/Summer 2008 collection by Maison Martin Margiela – one of my fashion gods!”
Explaining how she usually keeps the silhouette simple by wearing the jacket with a white tank top, black skinny jeans, and black heels, Jasmine added: “People love (the jacket). Most of the time, they touch my shoulders while commenting on it. Some people say it looks great on me but that they wouldn’t dare to wear it.”
These folks are probably right to be cautious.
With a measure of theatrical sorrow, Daniel noted: “Unfortunately, the best examples I’ve seen in Singapore so far have been on stick-thin, long-legged, broad-shouldered, skinny-waisted, waifish, androgynous men.”
But even those who do not fall into this demographic group can pull off the look with the right styling.
Declaring that “elongated, geometric and streamlined” are the key words to bear in mind, he said: “Lengthen the legs by wearing tight skinny pants or leggings in black, and sky-high chunky heels. Stilettos are more streetwalker and less fashionista.”
At Topshop — where this trend has been re-interpreted in the form of sold-out pieces such as a boyfriend jacket with slightly padded shoulders — a spokesperson advised: “Avoid pairing such pieces with anything baggy or loose. Keep the rest of your outfit fitted to balance the shoulder pads.”
If all this sounds like there’s one rule too many, just remember that at the end of the day, fashion should be fun.
Kelly Yeo, the owner of Deja Vu Vintage — which stocks actual ’80s shoulder-padded jackets, including vintage Christian Dior and Louis Feraud pieces — pointed out: “We have many customers who have taken their big-shouldered finds to events and received rave reviews.”
She added: “Fashion is all about experimenting, and big shoulders are a great example of having fun with fashion and not taking yourself so seriously. Besides, shoulder pads can often easily be removed when you tire of the look.
“Still, thank goodness we’ve given up the era’s big, lion-mane hairstyles!”
- TODAY/ yt
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