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Women aren't the only consumers shopping differently these days. In August 2009, U.S. men's clothing stores generated $663 million in sales, an 11.5% decrease from $749 million in August 2008, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics.
"In the early years of this century, consumers were on a buying binge without much regard for quality, lasting style or even need," says Robert E. Bryan, fashion historian and author of American Fashion Menswear, released September 2009. The current recession has changed that: "In tough times, men seek the tried and true," he says.
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What, in an era of slim wallets, warrants tried and true? Everything from a navy blazer to a pair of Converse sneakers, explains Tom Julian, men's style expert and author of the Nordstrom Guide to Men's Style. "The classic navy blazer is a hands-down must-have," he says.
However, he warns against something too obvious, like a double-breasted jacket with gold buttons, which smacks of the 1980s. Instead, stick with a two-button style in 100% wool. (Solid wool is less likely to wrinkle than a wool blend.) Brooks Brothers' version, made in the U.S. with Saxxon wool, is designed to feel as soft as cashmere. Julian suggests wearing it with a pair of flat front, gray flannel trousers. For more casual days, jeans work. Straight-leg or boot-cut denim flatters most sizes; avoid super-skinny styles.
Another closet classic? The Hermès tie. While you may be used to paying a third of what one of these hand-folded silk stunners costs ($170) it's a worthwhile splurge. Much like the brand's scarves--which, by the way, double nicely as a pocket square--Hermès ties are made in France from durable silk twill. Prints range from the wild--including illustrations of monkeys and penguins with orange, lime and lemon-colored backdrops--to the subtle, like vibrant red-dot on bright navy or dove and charcoal gray stripes.
For the guy who thinks he's more clothes-savvy than most, investing in a pair Alden boots is both cool and smart. Heritage brands, or clothes made by companies that have been around for over 100 years--such as Barbour or Filson--are de rigueur. Alden, a Middleborough, Mass.-based shoemaker with a 125-year history, is part of this trend. The company's Brixton boot--created for Brooklyn boutique Epaulet--is hip because of its wingtip styling and shiny black finish. But it's also practical: Each pair of handmade boots can be resoled by the factory for just $125. (The original soles should last three to four years.)
Another heritage piece that may indeed become an heirloom is Gant's 60th Anniversary Sea Island shirt. This special edition in French blue and white stripe is made of 100% Sea Island cotton, grown in the British West Indies. Each batch of handpicked cotton is inspected and issued with a certificate of authenticity, guaranteeing a silky texture. And yes, it's stylish too. "The button-down is having a moment in men's fashion," says Julian. While this shirt--when ironed and pressed--can be worn with a suit, it's also great for the weekend with those aforementioned Converse shoes.
"This just happens to be one of those rare moments in fashion when what's trendy is what's classic," says Bryan. "Right now, it's hip to be square."
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