HONG KONG : World-renowned good food guide Michelin has given its coveted three-star rating to a Chinese chef for the first time.

The chef was honoured in Michelin's first-ever guide to Hong Kong and Macau, which has also been met with biting criticism.

Michelin's inauguration of its first guide to Hong Kong and Macau kicked off with plenty of fanfare.

The edition is Michelin's first foray into China, the second Asian country it has featured since Japan.

The Michelin guide originated in France more than 100 years ago and has become the "bible" for food connoisseurs.

And its latest issue must have been a divine moment for Hong Kong Chef Chan Yan-tak.

His Cantonese cuisine restaurant Lung King Heen in the Four Seasons Hotel won Hong Kong's only three stars, after anonymous inspectors visited the restaurant 12 times.

Renowned French chef Joel Robuchon's restaurant Robuchon a Galera, in Macau's Grand Lisboa casino resort, was awarded the only other three stars in the guide.

The review also recommends restaurants in the "Bib Gourmand" section, which highlights establishments offering value for money.

But it has also stirred controversy.

Michelin executives revealed that only two of the 12 inspectors who had visited more than 1,000 restaurants anonymously since last November were Chinese.

The Michelin guide is supposed to show off the best culinary experience Hong Kong can offer. But some are sceptical that a mostly-Western perspective can accurately reflect the true tastes of an Asian city.

Lau Kin-Wai, food critic and owner of Kin's Kitchen, said: "They provide a criteria of a tourist, not a local gourmet."

Michelin has dismissed the criticism.

Jean-Luc Naret, director, Michelin guide, said: "You do not have to be French to understand French cuisine and you do not have to be Chinese to understand Chinese cuisine."

Michelin is expecting to sell 100,000 copies of its Hong Kong and Macau guide, after tasting similar success in Tokyo. - CNA/ms