As established as some European brands may be in their homeland, winning the approval of Asians in theirs is almost never achieved without some compromise.

Taste, by nature, is subjective. And the ability to cater to the predilections of locals is key to success.

This, I’m glad to say, is something that 192-year-old Milanese icon, Cova Pasticcera-Confetteria, does fairly well, while maintaining its roots in producing traditional Italian staples.

Its portfolio of 10 outlets in Hong Kong alone is proof of its quality fare and its Singapore branch, though only a year old, also looks to become a go-to place for quality Italian delicacies and authentic flavours - virtues reminiscent of the country’s artisanal tradition.

Make no mistake, though: This patisserie cum cafe’s borderline chi chi façade does not overwhelm its charming, casual setting.

Go for a weekend high tea and dig into as many of its famous freshly baked confectioneries as you can (for just $28), and you’ll quickly see why diners here are making Cova a regular haunt.

I recently found myself savouring one of its increasingly popular weekday lunches, something the patisserie in Milan does not offer, and ordered from the recently revamped a la carte menu.

Signature starters, such as a warm salad of arugula and julienned carrots served with grilled prawns and a caramelised balsamic dressing (made with its housebrand vinegar), are still available.

But, being a sucker for sampling the novel (at least once), I had to have the delicately crisp breaded crab cake, served with a lemongrass-capsicum sauce (S$19).

Luscious as the filling of Australian blue crab-mix was, it did not hide the unmistakable overall freshness of the ingredients.

Complementing what I felt was a deliberately unfussy dish was an aptly light yet subtly invigorating side of pureed avocado flavoured with lemon.

There was another newly added dish of pan-roasted cod with mixed mushrooms and soya sauce to choose as my main.

But how could I resist an aromatic Italian rendition of one of my favourite pairings: Grilled lamb rack and a deep fried eggplant-and-mozzarella layered cake, served with a coffee sauce (S$39). This, too, is new on the menu.

Unlike the contemporary Chinese dish of pork ribs in a rich coffee sauce, this variation’s espresso-veal jus sauce (made with its housebrand coffee, of course) was surprisingly less dense than I had expected, affording the other flavours in this medley an opportunity to shine.

I decided to have my lamb served medium, and wisely so. Tender and sans the ubiquitous gamey essence of this meat, the nicely caramelised streaks of fat on these cuts were also just the sort of sinful indulgence I was hoping for.

I had also secretly hoped to have more, perhaps the braised veal cheek ravioli, to share. But it would have meant forgoing dessert, and that was not going to happen.

Traditional bestsellers abound, but I went with another Asian inspired creation, a mango cream cake (S$9 for a slice).

Flaunting a lightness that can only be described as elegant, the cake represents to some extent traditional Italian refinement at its most accommodating; or you could simply call it scrumptious.

Where: 290 Orchard Road #01-20A Paragon
Telephone: 6733 0777
Opening Hours: 9am – 10.30pm, daily

- TODAY/yb