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SINGAPORE: Entering Spice Peranakan — fresh from its move from a sleepy corner of Bukit Timah — it occurred to me that with the right touches, modern design can be warm and welcoming. That comforting essence is also abundant in Spice Peranakan’s food.
Often, we eat without thinking, taking for granted how much effort goes into food preparation. Conversely, if something is made without due care, it shows in the taste.
With that in mind, it is clear that Spice Peranakan’s dishes — both its traditional fare and head chef Joshua Wee’s successful experiments — are made with love.
Like his delicious signature ayam goring (fried chicken covered in caramelised onions, S$9.80), the robust itek sioh (stewed duck leg, S$14.80) was a winner. The meat was tender while the rempah (gravy) was thick and complex. Evidently, much care had gone into blending the spice mix.
Also embodying the no-effort-spared Nonya approach was the staple ayam buah keluak (chicken with black nuts, S$13.80).
Every nut is hollowed, then stuffed chock full of that distinctive, dense meaty filling. Though not quite my favourite dish, one of my dyed-in-the-wool-Peranakan dinner companions commented that the buah keluak’s uniquely intense flavour was present and the taste was just right.
Of course, there are seafood dishes in abundance. I tried the ikan assam pedas (S$14.80) as well as the sotong sambal (S$10.80). While the former was fragrant and hearty, with a fresh and luscious slab of fish, I found the sotong (squid) less successful. Filled with a soft fish paste, it lacked harmony and relied instead on the sambal (chilli paste) to make it work.
Finally, there was the udang assam goreng, which featured plump prawns with a tamarind tang and a coating of caramel. Addictive.
I tend to avoid mixing booze with Asian food for fear of confusing my taste buds, but was persuaded to take a glass (or two) of the Riesling, which I thoroughly enjoyed.
Besides being particularly refreshing, the wine actually complemented dishes like the itek sioh and ayam goreng.
I had a sip of tempranillo to go with the delicious — if a little watery — babi ponteh (stewed pork with mushrooms in tau chio sauce, S$13.80). The red wine was surprisingly unobtrusive, ideal for a tasty meal such as this.
Rounding off our dinner was the unexpectedly sophisticated jemput-jemput with ice cream (S$7.80). Possibly a little too sweet for some, it combines the crunch of deep fried banana fritters with creamy ice cream and a topping of unctuous gula melaka.
There is certainly much to recommend at Spice Peranakan, and although it may take time for the uninitiated to choose from the dizzyingly comprehensive menu, the effort spent will be worth it.
- TODAY/ yt
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