| |
To get a good taste of culture, look no further than to the Peranakans - the colourful ethnic group that could have only sprung from Asia - and the largest museum dedicated to their culture.
If visiting museums aren't high on your list of must-do activities, you might want to have a re-think since the newly-opened centre at Armenian Street offers fun activities each weekend and is linked to a restaurant so you can literally sink your teeth into the culture of the Peranakans (Malay term for locally born).
The first weekend from the Museum's official opening on 25 April, will see a day of drama, music and song since the Peranakans were very talented singers and actors with their own brand of presentations performed in their distinct language.
Also on the line-up, a fashion show by the Nonyas (ladies) and Babas (gentlemen) with their unique 'kebaya' and 'baju' and food - which no Peranakan occasion would be complete without. Apart from a dinner, visitors will in true Peranakan style get a chance to be in the kitchen.
The fun will continue almost every weekend till May with the Peranakan festival "Mari Buat Lau Jiat" (Peranakan patois blending Malay and Chinese Hokkien meaning "let's make merry"). During that period, admission on the weekends is also just S$2 except for the first weekend, where the doors open free.
A tour of the Museum housed in the old Tao Nan school, which was built in the last century through a donation from a wealthy Peranakan, will surprise visitors at its blend of modern and tradition.
There are displays which may appear trendy when they are in fact old, while some stand juxtaposed against modern Peranakan displays which like the community, contrast without conflicting with all that's around them.
It was delightful to find a set of modern paintings by Desmond Sim, one of my favourite local artists for his distinct interpretation of Peranakans and their culture, standing just opposite a clever display of the beadwork the women in the community were so famous for. And if you think that Peranakan beading was just limited to shoes, you're in for a big surprise.
Those who love the intricate beadwork of the Peranakans will be able spend a long time appreciating the craft in a section on the third floor which has been dedicated to the Nonya. The section also features their famous kebaya and sarongs, with explanations on the subtle variations in style.
It's easy to wander from the varying rooms in the well-preserved building, each containing their own themes and insights so you don't end up with missing pieces of information on each aspect of the unique culture.
It is however, best to start on the ground floor at Origins, a room where Peranakans from different walks of life, age groups and ethnic blends smile down as you discover their roots.
After that, climb the staircase with its sturdy and polished wooden boards (or take the lift near the back if you're with the kids and grandparents) to the third floor and work your way down.
While I loved seeing the beadwork and comparing the different kebaya tops behind the glass with my collection, it was the section on Religion that amazed me.
Here, visitors get to see how the Peranakans assimilated to develop a culture that is completely their own, with altar tables for Chinese deities and ancestor worship that became altars for Christianity when many converted.
When appreciating the rare Christian altar, don't forget to turn around and pay attention to a mid-sized cross on loan from a local Catholic church. It is crafted out of rosewood with mother-of-pearl inlays, a style popular with the Chinese and Peranakans. But don't just pay attention to the beautiful wood and its craftsmanship.
At the centre of the rosewood cross is an oddly distracting circle inlay. This is said to contain a fragment from the true cross of Calvary. Being a holy relic to Christians, the cross used to be taken out only on special church festival days and not otherwise seen in public until now.
On the same floor, another turn brings visitors down a gloomy corridor with a large X across a mirror. If it tells you to turn back, maybe you should, as you'll stumble on a room decked out as a wake for a patriarch with his large Chinese style coffin drapped in a rare Peranakan funeral wrap.
Skip this if you must, for something more cheerful and close to the hearts of many - food and the porcelain ware which have become collector items.
The highlight for me here, was the stunning table laid out for the family of Yap Ah Loy, the Kapitan China of old Selangor who held sway over the migrant Chinese during the tin-mining boom days that made Kuala Lumpur much of what it is today.
Apart from the portrait of Yap, which gave it away for me as it was exactly the same one I had seen in my history books at school, those who can read Mandarin can examine the tableware to look for the family name woven into the intricate artwork that went into the porcelain pieces.
Yap, by the way, came from China but married a Nonya.
The second level has a large part dedicated to weddings, since the celebrations were not only elaborate, they also lasted for several days.
Look out for a set of uniquely designed trays used to in the exchange of weddings gifts and a display of gowns in silk and gold threads, along with ornate head-dress for the bride.
The museum is also very proud of the bridal chamber with an antique bed commissioned by a wealthy Peranakan for the wedding of his daughter. The ornate piece is adorned not just with carvings but also with embroidery and beadwork featuring symbols of fertility.
The wedding gallery also allows children to learn about Peranakan weddings in a fun way at one the few interactive stations set up around the museum to help the young learn about the culture.
The S$6 admission fee will be money well spent, and if you visit at the right time you'll be able to catch a guided tour in English, Mandarin or Japanese with the Museum's volunteers.
Like the Peranakan community,many of whom contributed personal items to the displays, the museum is vibrant and fun. With its side activities, such as the upcoming "Junk to Jewels" exhibition, the Peranakan museum is a place you'll want to visit more than once to learn of a culture that is uniquely Asian.
|
