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The Pump Room: Always room for more
By Genevieve Loh, TODAY | Posted: 29 August 2008 1428 hrs

 
 
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SINGAPORE: Fans of The Pump Room - and judging from the after-work overspill and arm-to-arm squeeze to the bar, there are many of them - have been in good cheer ever since a second outlet of the microbrewery, bar and bistro opened in Great World City, and with new, separate lunch and dinner menus, no less.

The Place

But if there are still idealists out there who believe that all good bars will forever run wild and gentrification-free, well, one evening at The Pump Room Great World City will burst their bubble.

The space is the epitome of urban simplicity, with casual, modern design juxtaposed against impossibly friendly wait staff and a surprisingly extensive lunch, dinner and bar menu. The deadly combination of that and a great happy-hour system of their own self-brewed beers will no doubt result in many a fat belly - and skinny wallet.

The Food And Beer

The two bar-snack starters of the excellent oven-roasted crispy sweet miso pork belly with hoisin sauce (S$16) and the tasty, but possibly a tad heavy, crispy blueswimmer crabcake on mango and waterchestnut salsa (S$16) were wonderful palate teasers, and the perfect excuse to order the freshly-brewed beer sampler (S$14; happy hour S$10) as an accompaniment. Five tiny glasses filled with a range of head brewer Alex Chasko’s concoctions proved refreshing and flavourful.

I didn’t care much for the sweeter Wheat Ale and the malty India Pale Ale. The winners were clearly full-bodied Scottish Ale, replete with roasted malt character, and the easy-to-drink The Pump Room Lager.

Dinner mains were cleanly-presented bistro-style fare, starting off with the paperbark-smoked Scottish salmon on desiree mash, asparagus and lemon myrtle Hollandaise sauce (S$28). The intriguing addition of real Australian tree bark roasted along with the salmon infused the requisite subtle fragrance. But the fish, mash and sauce, though competent, was unimpressive.

The roasted rack of lamb (S$34) supported strongly by rosemary jus was done exactly the way it was ordered - just this side rare and orally simulating. It simply melted in the mouth with a buttery texture and juice burst forth at each chew. Unfussy side dishes of crunchy skinny beans and delectable parmesan potato gratin were clean and simply done, and when washed down with a pint of The Pump Room Stout, made a fuss-free, satisfying meal.

The smooth, velvety, dark-bodied Irish Stout, with its invigorating chocolatey undertone really deserves the gold medal, and affirmed that, yes, The Pump Room brews are truly signature.

However, it was the dessert that stole the show. The sticky date pudding with butterscotch and vanilla ice cream (S$10) was thankfully not cloyingly sweet, with textures that demanded attention and a flavour that seemed to linger forever.

Overall, the good food whets the appetite for more drinks, but that can be quickly solved with their beers going one-for-one during happy hour (5pm to 8pm daily). While both outlets serve the same meals for dinner, the Great World City outlet has a dedicated lunch menu. Dinner ends at 9.30pm, but bar snacks are available from 2pm till closing. -
TODAY/sh

The Pump Room Great World City
Address: 1, Kim Seng Promenade #01-66/67, Great World City
Tel: 6887 3229

 

 



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