The birthplace of Venus de Milo, that famed statue that takes pride of place in the Louvre, has the same draws as other Greek islands — there are ruins, pristine beaches and deep cerulean seas to explore and enjoy.

It is what the island of Milos lacks that makes it a delight for travellers looking for a slice of Greece away from the holiday crowds. There is no touristy hustle and bustle here. Visitors to the island are mainly Greeks looking for a spot to relax and a handful of international tourists.

The quiet environment was a boon for my travel companion and me after the suffocating heat and frenetic tourist activity on the popular resort island of Santorini.

Milos, in contrast, was comfortable and refreshing, its light breeze a joy to the hot and weary.

Travel guides describe the south-western Cycladic island as “a big friendly island with interesting geological formations”. Indeed, for lovers of geology, Milos is paradise.

There are ivory beaches, elaborate caves, water-licked rocks and arcs of stone carved out by the incessant lapping of the sea. Red and white clay, green chlorite, black obsidian — volcanic minerals gathered over millions of years on the island — are abundant in the rocks and make for a tidy collection.

We arrived in Milos in the dark of night, stepping off the ferry at 1am at the port town of Adamas. The owner of Hotel del Mar welcomed us at the shore — a pre-arrangement made via the Internet — and drove us 15 minutes north to Pollonia, where the hotel was situated.

The next day, we set out to see the island.

Papafragas, a 30-minute walk from our hotel, consists of two sunken caves about two-storeys deep. From the top, it looks as though someone had dug two huge pits and flushed them with water.

At the foot of the cave is a pool of turquoise water that locals and visitors alike use to cool off in the hot sun. Lounging on a small strip of sand beside the water were a teenage Greek couple who had come to this hideaway for a dip.

It is an idyllic spot, made intimate by the rock walls that surround the pool like a fortress and hide it from view.

Outside the cave, a Greek man was giving his British friend a tour of the island.

“How do you like Milos?” he asked upon seeing us. “To the Greeks, this is the best island,” he added, nodding to show his approval.

There are must-sees on Milos, he told us, but they cannot be reached by foot. The candescent limestone beaches of Sarakiniko, for example, can only be accessed by car while Kleftiko, an old pirate shelter hidden by rocks, can only be reached by boat.

But one does not have to travel far to be charmed. At the hooked tip of Pollonia lies a breakwater that teems with marine life. It’s not necessary to dive or snorkel to appreciate the sea life here — a swim is enough, as I found out.

As the sun gleamed through the clear blue water, I swam among schools of small silver fish and bigger ones such as red mullet (which I later recognised as my dinner). The fishes were so close that I could touch them with my fingers. Coral covered the rocks on the seabed and the cackling sound of fish feeding among them was just audible.

For the trained, there are several dive shops in the area that provide equipment and expertise for an eye-opening underwater tour.

That evening, we dined at Armenaki fish taverna, a restaurant that is packed with locals and tourists alike. Foodies who love Singapore’s Fish Market restaurant because they can choose their own fish to be cooked will be thrilled in Milos because the practice is common here. Almost all the fish come from the waters around the island.

We chose our fish, mullet and sea bream, which were served oven-baked with potatoes, olives, tomatoes and olive oil — a hearty meal. Meanwhile, other diners tucked into plates of mussels and feasted on Greek salads while savouring their wine.

Milos is worth at least a two-day stop. Go with someone with a driving licence who can operate manual cars. The automatic version is scarce because of poor demand from European tourists.

To explore the waters around Milos, rent a boat for a day for 100 euros ($205). The boat can reach the small islands of Kimolos and other inaccessible places, giving visitors entry into Milos’ hidden treasures. - TODAY/ra