Once there were warriors By Jennifer Chen, TODAY | Posted: 05 June 2008 1158 hrs
Photos
of
If Kyoto embodies imperial Japan and Tokyo its avant garde glory, then Tohoku in the island’s north carries the spirit of its mighty warriors. The region is known for its castles and samurai towns as much as its fertile land and rugged mountains.
The focus on farming -— Tohoku is the rice basket of Japan -— has helped the area retain a sense of tradition, its link to the feudal past, in the midst of inevitable progress.
Working with the land seems to be in the blood of the people here, if not due to economic circumstances, then a need to see the ground bear fruit.
Outside the cities and the giant Aeon shopping malls, it’s common to see vegetables sprouting in often unexpected places, such as shallots and mustard greens planted next to the road, beside a car dealership. Another common sight is of homes with small, meticulously kept vegetable gardens.
There are also expansive orchards in Aomori prefecture in the north where apples as big as grapefruits grow and where visitors can pick their fill to take home.
It is in this province that the region’s samurai past is celebrated with gusto every first week of August. The festivals in the cities of Aomori (Nebuta Matsuri) and Hirosaki (Neputa Matsuri) are grand, colourful affairs where lamp-post high, illuminated floats depicting fierce samurais of legend are paraded through the streets. It’s Mardi Gras, Japanese style, complete with singing and accompanying dancers.
The bastion of power for the Tsugaru clan in the 17th century, Hirosaki boasts the stately Hirosaki castle, which is situated within a walled 49 ha, verdant compound. In the fall, the leaves of the 2,600 trees on the site are transformed into shades of orange and red. The view is even more magnificent in the spring when the burst of fluffy pink cherry blossoms draws hordes to the city.
A concentration of samurai history can be found in the town of Kakunodate in Akita prefecture south of Aomori. The area was a military outpost in 1620, housing a community of warriors and merchants.
It’s not all about blood, guts and glory in Tohoku, however. The splendours of gold-rich Hiraizumi in Iwate prefecture drew traders from all over Japan. It was the stronghold of Lord Fujiwara Kiyohara, who, tired of warfare and bloodshed, built the Chusonji Buddhist temple on a hill.
Kiyohara had seen his father decapitated; comrades in arms, and wife and son killed in the throes of war. He wanted to create a pure land for peace.
He got his wish. Walking through Chusonji’s sprawling temple compound, with its towering trees and lush vegetation truly quiets the soul.
Even the dazzling highlight of Chusonji is muted. The Konjikido, or Golden Hall, was built by Kiyohara in 1124 at the request of his wife. Considered a national treasure, it is a glittering replica of a temple complete with Buddhist sculptures that include the Goddess of Mercy and the guardian of children.
Every inch of Konjikido’s surface is painted gold, either lacquered or covered in gold leaf. It is housed behind glass, under dim lights, a mercy for eyes that can’t handle the intensity of the shine.
The hall represented a Golden Age in Tohoku if not the Fujiwara family’s fortunes, which declined 100 years later.
In the words of haiku poet, Matsuo Basho, who visited this area in the 17th century: The summer grass/’Tis all that’s left/of ancient warriors’ dreams.
These days, the grass is still there. The wars may be over, but the memories of the indomitable men who fought them linger on. - TODAY/sh
Disclaimer The information displayed here belongs to the individual content providers and is intended for general information only.
MediaCorp Pte Ltd will not be held liable for any loss, damage or injury caused by or arising through any inaccuracies or
incomplete information shown on these pages. MediaCorp Pte Ltd will not be liable for any loss or damage, whether direct or indirect, relating to the use of the information. Selling, re-distributing or reproducing the information on these pages without prior permission from MediaCorp Pte Ltd is strictly prohibited.
