Lakes of gods and oddballs
By Evelyn Chen, TODAY | Posted: 07 August 2008 1220 hrs

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HOKKAIDO, Japan: It was close to midnight and I was standing on an observatory in pitch darkness. “I can’t see anything,” I whispered to my guide, Ms Junko Suga.

As the mist slowly faded away, the “Mountain of the Gods” or Mt Mashudake appeared. It was majestic — an inky outline in the light of the full moon. Below, the still waters of Lake Mashu duplicated the image like a perfect mirror. It was not a typical view of the lake or the mountain, this night sighting, but I was more taken than ever by the beauty of Hokkaido.

I had my first glimpse of Japan’s northern island just minutes outside Chitose Airport. The picture was of a lush landscape where horses graze leisurely and farmers tend their fields of lavender and wheat. Compared to a concrete jungle like Singapore, the rural scenery was a refreshing sight.

Hokkaido’s allure lies in its diverse geography and spaciousness. Fertile pastures give way to soaring mountains and clear–blue lakes born from the island’s volcanic activity. There are five national parks in Hokkaido, each with their distinctive features. I visited two well-known areas in Akan National Park — Lake Akan and Lake Mashu.

REALM OF THE GODS: LAKE MASHU

The Ainu, Hokkaido’s indigenous people, believe that Lake Mashu is the “Lake of the Gods”, and not for its beauty alone, for it’s often cited as the most beautiful lake in Japan.

“Most people in Hokkaido do not have a religion, but we believe in nature,” said Ms Junko, as we gazed at Lake Mashu, a 212m deep caldera lake that was created when a volcano erupted 7,000 years ago. It is isolated by steep 200m cliffs and with no river flowing in or out, it is one of the calmest and clearest lakes in the world.

In 1931, the lake was found to be transparent up to 41 metres. Imagine being able to see objects 16 storeys down. The introduction of salmon and trout into the lake has decreased its clarity but it remains one of the most pristine in the world.

The surface of the water, on the other hand, is often covered in swirling mist and fog, giving the Lake Mashu an otherworldly, dream-like quality that no doubt contributed to the Ainu perception that it is the “Lake of the Gods”.

In the centre of the lake lies an island known as Kamuishu or “Isle of the Gods”. Rising only 30 metres above the lake’s surface, it is a mere nub compared to Mt Mashudake. But what’s visible is only its tip. The tiny island is actually the peak of a submerged lava dome rising from the bottom of the water. Its name means “the old woman who became a god” in Ainu. In tribal lore, an old woman who was fleeing from her enemies stopped here for a rest and was transformed into the island.

There are three lookout points to view the lake. All are from above as the wall of cliffs prevents access to the water. More adventurous visitors can hike to the peak of Mt Mashudake for a bird’s eye view.

THE ODDBALLS: LAKE AKAN

Lake Akan, in the park’s south-west, is smaller than Lake Mashu. The lake’s distinguishing feature is that it’s one of the few places in the world where weedballs called marimo grow. Visitors can see them in tanks at the giftshops in the area.

More information about marimo — which can grow as big as footballs — can be found at the Marimo Exhibition Centre on Churui-shima island across the lake, where there are underwater viewing tanks. The balls bob to the surface of the water during the day as they photosynthesise and sink down again at night.

Lake Akan is also where visitors can find out more about Ainu people and their culture. About 200 Ainu live in Ainu Kotan, a recreated village that highlights the tribe’s traditional crafts, costumes and way of life.

The village was an intriguing culturalelement in a tour of Hokkaido’s natural attractions. The island satisfied my quest for scenic beauty, with a few unexpected weedballs thrown in. - TODAY/sh

This trip was made possible by the Japan National Tourism Organisation and Japan Airlines.

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