Mayan Magic By Ivar Schout, TODAY | Posted: 18 September 2008 1317 hrs
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SINGAPORE : The ancient Mayans used to sacrifice newcomers to their gods - so I was happy to arrive in south-east Mexico many centuries after their society’s decline.
The mysterious Mayan ruins on the flat Yucatan peninsula are bordered by beautiful white-sanded beaches and warm turquoise seas, and the most famous and best-restored Mayan ruin is the city of Chichen Itza.
This sprawling Unesco World Heritage Site boasts impressive ruins of huge ball courts, temples, baths and high pyramids, including El Castillo or Pyramid of Kukulcan, which was voted one of the New Seven World Wonders last year.
The sprawling ball court among the ruins (twice the size of a modern football pitch) is surrounded by a wall on which rings are placed. The game, in those days, was simple: Throw the ball through the rings and you win.
The twist was in the losing, as the losers were decapitated and offered to the gods, their heads reserved to be used as balls for the next game.
This we know because the scenario is vividly illustrated through carved panels on the walls.
These carvings, along with depictions and hieroglyphs about the Mayan’s many wars, kidnappings and human sacrifices, are pretty solid testaments that they weren’t the friendliest of societies.
What they lacked in social graces, however, the ancient Mayans made up for with highly advanced skills in agriculture and irrigation, writing, mathematics, astronomy, art and architecture. In fact, they were the first society to use a calendar.
The Rise and Fall
The Maya civilisation was established in Central America around 2000BC and was one of the most densely populated and culturally developed societies in the world.
The society began its decline from about 900AD though as the large number of its descendents prove, they never disappeared.
Archaeologists and the locals believe there are yet more Maya ruins to be discovered under the thick green canopy of south-east Mexico. They just have to dig a little deeper.
Fortunately, many of those that have been discovered — pyramids, palaces and temples with hieroglyphic inscriptions — are still accessible and provide us with an idea of how this fascinating society functioned.
Sun, Sea and Mayans
The only Maya city built on the coast is the well-preserved walled city of Tulum. Tourists come not only to explore its striking ruins replete with relief figures of gods, but also to enjoy its stunning beaches.
There are jungle hikes and swims with dolphins, excellent diving among the second largest coral reef in the world, and jungle hikes and kite surfing to make for a truly well-rounded holiday.
Indeed, the sunny climes, beautiful beaches and azure seas make the Yucatan peninsula a great holiday destination.
The once tiny fishing village of Cancun is now the peninsula’s main tourist centre. Visitors use Cancun as a base from which to explore the rest of the Yucatan peninsula, as the major Mayan ruins like Chichen Itza and Tulum are easily accessible from here.
In shady downtown Cancun, enjoy Mexican beers (always with a slice of lime down the bottle’s neck) and authentic Mexican tacos and tortilla. Friendly waitresses in the town’s restaurants deliver orders while sashaying and singing along to infectious Latin tunes.
While almost everyone in Cancun speaks English, its people appreciate any attempt at Spanish by their visitors, no matter how pidgin it may be.
Try it and you’ll be rewarded with excellent conversation. I found out from a group of locals that the name Yucatan comes from the Mayan phrase, “I don’t understand your words”, which was what the Mayans uttered when the first Spanish conquistadores arrived in the early 16th century and asked what the area was called.
In the evenings, take your cue from the locals and kick back and enjoy true Mexican food and drink.
I soon realise that Mayan culture is everywhere, as many of those I met in the bars and restaurants of Cancun were Mayan descendents.
Like their ancestors, they easily down the worms at the bottom of their bottles. It’s as natural to them as catching a strawberry in champagne.
I’m just glad that they didn’t see the need to sacrifice this newcomer.
Getting there and around: Flights from Singapore to Cancun go via a hub in the United States such as Los Angeles. To get around Mexico, try taking a bus. Air conditioned and affordable, it is the prevalent mode of transportation. It takes about two hour to get from Cancun to Tulum (130km). Cost: $7.50
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