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Fuji's other side
By Zul Othman, TODAY | Posted: 16 October 2008 1041 hrs

 
 
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There is one thing Japan is best known for and it’s neither manga, anime, J-pop or even karaoke.

That honour, as I was told by a tour guide on a recent visit to the Shizuoka prefecture in Japan, is the onsen — the bathing facilities and inns around the hot springs.

A volcanically active country, Japan has thousands of onsen scattered around its 3,000 islands. They are the nation’s best known attractions, places where tourists and locals alike can seek solace amid tranquil surroundings, while soaking in the water’s reputed healing qualities.

For those accustomed to Tokyo’s frenetic pace, an onsen experience makes for a startling change.

Situated miles away from the busy Pachinko machines, kawaii (cute) Hello Kitty dolls and Shibuya’s bewildering clash of neon and noise, hot springs are perfect for those looking to dodge the colour and kitsch of the city.

A road trip there gives visitors to Japan a chance to see a little-seen side of the country, as I found out last month when I explored the nooks and crannies in the prefectures surrounding Mount Fuji.

ROLLER-COASTERS, YAMANASHI

It’s best to visit Japan with an open mind and be prepared to be stupefied.

On a recent tour to the Yamanashi, Shizuoka and Kanagawa prefectures — all about two hours away from Tokyo — I found attractions that ranged from the sublime to the outright silly.

The re-creation of a European village in the middle of Yamanashi, for instance, dedicated solely to music boxes, was clearly the latter.

Gems, however, were aplenty.

Fujiyoshida-shi in Yamanashi prefecture, located some 100km west of Tokyo, features no big city amenities but to its credit, it houses a good mix of modern and traditional attractions to please all and sundry.

Aside from being a popular pit stop before visiting Mount Fuji, the area is home to countless shrines that see a large number of pilgrims every year.

But what do you do when you’ve had your fill of shrines and old towns?

Well, you could take refuge in the thoroughly entertaining confines of Fuji-Q Highland (www.eejanaika.jp), an amusement park that features one of Japan’s tallest and most terrifying rollercoaster rides.

The best times to go are during weekdays, when queues are manageable.

For those looking for less adventurous pursuits, the lakeside resort of Kawaguchi, an hour’s drive from Fujiyoshida-shi, could prove a breather.

Navigation is simple due to the compact layout of the district. The streets are lined with tourist shops to keep visitors happy.

Locals are friendly and the abundance of scenic buildings make a stop here all the more worthwhile. At night, there is a marvellous view of Mount Fuji.

ZOOM AMONG ZEN, SHIZUOKA

Japan is such a motley mix of excess and zen that even when you’re in the most serene of surroundings, there will always be distractions.

One moment I was strolling through the atmospheric old towns of Shuzenji — spending half a day in the mediaeval area populated by centuries-old shrines, inns and eateries — and the next, I was drawn to the most unlikely of activities: Watching a practice run at Fuji Speedway, a Formula 1 haven (www.fujispeedway.co.jp) located two hours away from Fujiyoshida-shi.

A famed race track, it is home to the Japanese Grand Prix which usually falls in October. In fact, Fernando Alonso won the Japanese Grand Prix here on Sunday.

Even at other times of the year, there is plenty of action by the grandstands. Fans can get up close to the display of historic F1 cars and inside the Speedway, there is a short course that mimics a Formula One circuit with facilities such as pits and a control tower. Speed demons can try the sport here.

Visitors looking for a similar but less hair-raising experience can zip around a smaller track in specially modified go-karts.

SEA PARADISE, KANAGAWA

In another sign of Japan’s inclination for contrasts, I ended my trip with a visit to Yokohama, the capital of Kanagawa prefecture and the second most populous area after Tokyo.

The places of interest here are centred around the historic port of Kannai. For a bird’s eye view, head to the Yokohama Landmark Tower’s Sky Garden, an observation deck on the 69th floor that affords 360-degree views of the city and Mount Fuji itself on a clear day.

Located at the tip of Yokohama Bay and one of the top aquariums in Japan is the Yokohama Hakkejima Sea Paradise.

Flanked by an amusement park and an open aquarium, the venue has an oceanarium much bigger than Sentosa’s Underworld, an aqua stadium and a museum.

Yokohama may be a big city but you can still get away from all the craziness. A dinner cruise on Royal Wing, the only entertainment and restaurant vessel in Japan, is one such option.

For US$100 ($146) for two, guests can enjoy a scrumptious meal prepared by head chef So Keiri while the Yokohama skyline serves as a backdrop (details at www.royalwing.co.jp).

The dinner was a wonderful reprieve from the hectic sight seeing. It capped off my trip nicely. -
TODAY/ra

 

 



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