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Editorial Skeleton Watches
WHAT LIES
BENEATH
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These outstanding skeleton and peekaboo watches are stripping back the dial to reveal the true artistry and audacity of modern watchmaking
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While traditional timepieces concealed their mechanical hearts behind opaque dials, today’s luxury watchmakers are literally laying bare their souls, transforming movements into mesmerising works of kinetic art that celebrate the beauty of artisanal craftsmanship. From full skeletonisation that strips away every superfluous element to peekaboo designs that offer tantalising glimpses of the movement beneath, this shift is a confident declaration of mechanical mastery, where watchmakers invite scrutiny of their most intimate horological secrets. The following transparent marvels transform the simple act of reading time into an immersive journey.
VIVID
EXPRESSION
Named after the French village of Les Baux and the natural ore from which aluminium is extracted, the Franck Muller Vanguard Royal Bauxite is an exuberant celebration of technical ingenuity and avant-garde design. Its bold 41mm by 49.95mm case is crafted from an exclusive anodised aluminium alloy, engineered for exceptional strength and rich, saturated colour. Unlike standard anodised finishes, this proprietary alloy offers exceptional scratch resistance and the vibrant hues that have become a Franck Muller signature.
Powering the watch is the hand-wound MVT FM 1740-VS calibre, a skeletonised movement boasting an impressive seven-day power reserve. In a strikingly unconventional move, the regulator – typically hidden on the reverse – is boldly positioned at 8 o’clock on the dial side, offering a unique view of the balance wheel in action. The openworked movement is further elevated by colourful anodised aluminium bridges, a mirror-polished regulator assembly and meticulous hand-finishing.
ETCHED
PERFECTION
Elevating the art of transparency, the Bovet Virtuoso XI is the independent Swiss watchmaker’s first fully skeletonised timepiece. Every visible surface, including the bridges, plates, and even interior edges, is meticulously hand-engraved in the traditional Fleurisanne style. This is made possible by a redesigned movement architecture that allows for rare double-sided decoration.
Framed by Bovet’s trademarked Writing Slope case, this 44mm mechanical marvel dazzles with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds set around the bezel, while a Fleurisanne-engraved bow completes the composition. More than 60 pairs of skilled hands contribute to the creation of each Virtuoso XI, transforming it into a true work of horological art. Also available in red gold, this exceptional timepiece is a collector’s dream, brought to life on a richly sculpted, three-dimensional canvas.
THE VIRTUOSO XI’S FLYING TOURBILLON MOVEMENT DRAWS ITS ENERGY FROM A SINGLE BARREL THAT ENSURES MORE THAN 10 DAYS OF POWER RESERVE.
BEJEWELLED
ART
H. Moser & Cie. boldly steps beyond its minimalist roots with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Rainbow – a dazzling fusion of mechanical mastery and high jewellery savoir-faire. Marking a rare foray into gemstone setting, this eye-catching timepiece features 60 meticulously selected baguette-cut sapphires totalling 2.9 carats, invisibly set around the case middle. Each gem is chosen for its precise shape and colour, forming a flawless rainbow gradient that accentuates the Streamliner’s signature cushion-shaped silhouette.
At its heart beats the fully skeletonised HMC 814 manufacture calibre, whose sculptural, three-dimensional design reveals an intricate interplay of form and function. A one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock anchors the dial with hypnotic precision, while the in-house double hairspring underscores the brand’s technical prowess.
TIME,
REIMAGINED
With the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, Hermès transforms horology into a whimsical meditation on being present. First introduced in 2011 and reimagined for 2025, its poetic ‘Time Suspended’ complication allows the wearer to pause time, literally. Pressing a discreet pusher sees the hour and minute hands retreat to a resting point to frame 12 o’clock, suspending the display of time, while the mechanical movement continues ticking beneath. Press again and the hands spring back to the current time.
The manufacture Hermès H1837 automatic movement drives 360° retrograde hour and minute hands, a retrograde date hand and the ingenious ‘Time Suspended’ module comprising 145 components. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is finished with Côtes de Genève, circular graining and etched Hermès H’s motifs. Housed in a 42mm white or rose gold case with Hermès’ signature asymmetrical lugs, the watch is offered in sunburst blue, brun désert or rouge sellier.
MADE FROM SANDBLASTED, TRANSLUCENT LACQUERED SAPPHIRE, THE ARCEAU LE TEMPS SUSPENDU DIAL OFFERS A PEEKABOO VIEW OF THE MOVEMENT BENEATH.
ARMOURED
ELEGANCE
IWC Schaffhausen redefines resilience in high horology with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL, a cutting-edge fusion of mechanical complexity and shock resistance. For the first time, the Swiss manufacture integrates its patented SPRIN-g PROTECT system with a flying minute tourbillon, offering extraordinary protection to one of watchmaking’s most delicate and fragile complications. Encased in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary alloy that combines the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic, this 44mm skeletonised timepiece showcases a revolutionary bulk metallic glass (BMG) spring engineered to withstand shocks exceeding 10,000Gs.
Powering the watch is the IWC-manufactured calibre 82915, featuring skeletonised plates, bridges and rotor to minimise mass and optimise shock absorption. Weighing only 0.663g, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock appears to hover above the minimalist black ring dial. The generous 80-hour power reserve is driven by a ceramic-reinforced Pellaton winding system. Each watch in this 100-piece limited edition comes fitted with a black patterned rubber strap and Ceratanium pin buckle.
ARCHITECTURAL
STATEMENT
Limited to just 50 pieces, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Skeleton Slate Green is a contemporary masterclass in skeletonisation. Its defining feature – a striking slate green openworked dial – is inspired by the colour palette of Swiss-French architect and painter Le Corbusier. This hue highlights the architectural beauty of the PF777 manufacture calibre, creating a mesmerising interplay of metallic reflections and shadows that bring the 192-component movement to life. Every element is finished to the highest standards, with satin-brushed and hand-bevelled bridges offset by polished steel accents.
Housed in a refined 40mm stainless steel case, the watch is framed by a platinum knurled bezel that adds tactile depth and understated luxury. Skeletonised delta-shaped hands and rhodium-plated indices appear to float above the sandblasted backdrop, offering exceptional legibility within a display designed for transparency.
THE TONDA PF SKELETON SLATE GREEN’S SAPPHIRE CASEBACK REVEALS AN OPENWORKED 22K WHITE GOLD ROTOR, CONTINUING THE THEME OF VISUAL LIGHTNESS.
A MODERN
EDGE
Patek Philippe reimagines one of its most coveted grand complications with the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001, bringing bold modernity to a revered classic. The 39.5mm white gold case features a guilloché bezel and caseback that are both adorned with the manufacture’s iconic hobnail pattern.
The watch’s standout feature is a semi-transparent grey metallised sapphire crystal dial with a softly shaded black-gradient rim. The architectural dial reveals glimpses of the date and moon-phase discs, while preserving a clean, legible layout. Faceted Dauphine hands and baton-style hour markers in white gold, enhanced with white luminescent coating, provide clarity without sacrificing elegance. The perpetual calendar indications are clearly arranged, with apertures for the day, month and leap year, and a retrograde date hand that sweeps across a 270° arc before snapping back to the 1st, thanks to a patented decoupling mechanism that ensures a smooth rebound. The moon-phase complication is equally impressive, deviating by just one day every 122 years. This handsome timepiece comes with a black composite strap featuring a fabric pattern and cream contrast stitching. It is secured by Patek Philippe’s newly patented white gold triple-blade folding clasp.