Celebrating the chronograph in a long tradition of horological excellence at Patek Philippe

As the last independent, family-owned Geneva manufacture, there are few watchmaking houses more revered than Patek Philippe. This fiercely guarded independence is perhaps why the Swiss watchmaker has flourished in artistry, technical mastery and innovation for over 180 years since its founding in 1839.

At the heart of this unyielding quest for both precision and perfection is the chronograph, which has long played a leading role in Patek Philippe’s repertoire of complicated watches. 

A PROUD HISTORY OF INNOVATION

All watches measure time but it is the chronograph that dedicates itself to short-time measurement. First invented in 1816 by French horologist Louis Moinet for tracking astronomical objects, the chronograph has since evolved far beyond its early incarnation of a basic stopwatch into increasingly complex mechanisms.

In 2005, Patek Philippe leveraged its know-how in this field by launching an initiative to develop a complete series of chronograph movements – all designed and produced in-house.

Upon its debut that same year, the manually wound Caliber CHR 27-525 PS had the distinction of being the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement with a height of just 5.25mm.

A year later, the Caliber CH 28-520 was launched, with a vertical rather than horizontal clutch. The absence of sharp teeth to engage or disengage the mechanism meant a smoother sweep of the chronograph hand while reducing wear and tear. This also exerted less impact on the movement’s power reserve.

Then came 2009 and Patek Philippe’s first proprietary manually wound chronograph movement with an astonishing six patents. The Caliber CH 29-535 featured patents for its optimised toothing profile, eccentric column wheel cap, synchronisation of the brake lever, hammers pivoted between jewel bearings, self-setting return to zero hammers and slotted instantaneous minute-counter cam.

More horological wonders were unveiled the following year when Patek Philippe introduced its thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar in the Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, comprising the same base movement of the earlier CHR 27-525 PS plus an extremely thin calendar module for a total height of 7.3mm. 

A CELEBRATION OF EXCEPTIONAL CHRONOGRAPHS

Ref 5373P-001

Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, the new Ref 5373P-001 is the first left-hander chronograph in recent Patek Philippe history.

You will quickly notice its unusual arrangement of pushers and displays combining a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate complications, a perpetual calendar, in the 6 o’clock position.

This grand complication sits in a platinum case endowed with the aforementioned Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, while its red varnished chronograph hands offer a striking contrast to the charcoal dial – a palette echoed on the black calfskin strap for an altogether contemporary and sporty look.

Ref 7968/300R-001

In 2004, Patek Philippe’s celebrated Aquanaut welcomed a feminine companion in the Aquanaut Luce, characterised by a burst of diamonds on its bezel that inspired its name, “Luce”, meaning “light” in Italian. 

The collection has since evolved beyond the cosmetic, with the manufacture enhancing the Aquanaut Luce line with its first additional function – a second time zone – in the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time (Ref 5269/200R-001), equipped with a quartz movement, in 2021.

Today, the first Aquanaut Luce with a chronograph movement has arrived. The Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Chronograph (Ref 7968/300R-001) is Patek Philippe’s first self-winding ladies’ chronograph – a rose-gold timepiece embellished with a beautiful medley of 50 baguette diamonds (2.41 cts) and 52 multi-coloured sapphires (2.62 cts) visibly set by Patek Philippe’s jewellers.

Ref 5204G-001

Patek Philippe has reworked one of its grand classics with the new Ref 5204G-001, a model combining two of its most coveted grand complications: A split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar featuring the manually wound Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q movement.

Seven patented innovations further augment its appeal, as does its handsome olive-green sunburst dial housed in a white gold case, with matching-coloured calfskin strap.

Ref 5935A-001

At a glance, the new self-winding World Time flyback chronograph (Ref 5935A-001) draws you in with its sporty yet vintage allure – a curious equation in this first stainless-steel version of a Patek Philippe cult model.

Encircling the carbon motif in the centre of the opaline rose gilt dial are the global city names on the periphery, reflecting the World Time function that simultaneously indicates the time in 24 time zones, made possible via an exclusive patented mechanism that can correct all displays with a single pusher at 10 o’clock.

Ref 5990/1A-011

A rarity for its steel architecture – Patek Philippe seldom uses this material – the Nautilus Travel Time chronograph (Ref 5990/1A-011) features a new blue dial with a ray sunburst pattern and a delicate black gradation to the periphery.

Its self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS movement combines three convenient and user-friendly complications: A flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonised hand shows home time) and an analog date at 12 o’clock, synchronised with local time.

Constant and consistent innovation – from groundbreaking mechanisms to grand complications and precision movements – and exquisite craftsmanship are just some of the hallmarks behind the manufacture's prestigious reputation among collectors, aficionados and those who are simply in the know.

Discover more of the delicate artistry, technical dexterity, and inspiring innovation behind the new collection of Patek Philippe timepieces.