Gaia Series 75: New Strategies for Tea and Coffee

This week’s episode shines a spotlight on one beverage company’s journey in bringing Japanese green to the world. 

The story of Japanese green tea venturing into Europe unfolds as a tale of ambition, cultural adaptation and sustainability. Oi Ocha, the flagship product of Itoen, has been a household name in Japan since 1989, with more than 43 billion bottles sold. It dominates in Japan with the largest market share of one-third of the market. However, transforming this beloved drink into a global phenomenon is no easy feat. 

This week’s episode follows the company on its journey to introduce Oi Ocha to European consumers with the vision of eventually of being sold in 100 countries.

In the bustling heart of Tokyo’s Shibuya district, a massive billboard featuring LA Dodgers’ Shohei Ohtani commands attention. As a baseball superstar and a cultural icon, Ohtani's endorsement of Oi Ocha underscores the drink’s status in Japan. “Even when I lived in Japan, I loved Oi Ocha and drank it all the time,” Ohtani shares. His partnership with Itoen symbolises the company’s intent to position green tea as a sophisticated, globally appealing beverage.

Germany serves as the starting point for Itoen’s European expansion. The strategy begins in Düsseldorf, a city known for its international trade and a significant Japanese expatriate population. From their modest office in the city, Itoen’s team, led by Magoto Ogi and Kazehiko Nakajima, faces challenges of strict European regulations and cultural differences.

The meticulous process of adapting Oi Ocha for Europe begins in the tea fields of Kagoshima. This region, with its volcanic ash-enriched soil, produces nearly 26,000 tonnes of tea annually. Ogi meets with tea producers like Shogo Horiguchi, who explains the painstaking effort required to grow pesticide-compliant crops. “As soon as you remove some weeds, they grow back instantly—it’s a constant battle,” he says, highlighting the difficulties of organic farming. Despite these hurdles, the farmers are committed to meeting European standards, recognising the potential for growth abroad. 

Other European regulations that need to be met include stringent rules governing the use of plastic which forces them to change their packaging from plastic to paper. They also had to redesign the bottle caps; Since last July, the EU made it mandatory for non-removable caps to be used.    “We have to comply with the regulations, and they are more stringent than those in Japan,” notes Ogi.  

Once in Europe, the reception to Oi Ocha proves mixed. In Düsseldorf supermarkets, the product struggles to stand out against rows of brightly coloured energy drinks and sweetened teas manufactured by European brands. Consumer feedback during tastings highlights the stark contrast in preferences: “It tastes grassy,” says one participant, while another calls it “fishy.” The distinct flavour profile of unsweetened green tea clashes with European palates, accustomed to milder or sweeter options.

In Milan, Rossella Guidobono, a marketing manager, offers a key suggestion: blending matcha with green tea to create a smoother, more approachable flavour. This idea sparks a flurry of activity back in Japan, where Itoen’s development team experiments with over 50 samples, fine-tuning the balance of matcha and green tea. “It feels like there’s a fine line between what is fresh and what is grassy,” Ogi reflects as he samples each iteration. 

Throughout the episode, the documentary captures the emotional stakes of the project. Ogi’s determination is palpable as he samples each variation, refusing to settle for anything less than excellence. When Nakajima finally approves the matcha-infused version, the sense of achievement is tangible. “That grassiness has been completely removed,” Nakajima remarks. “I think this is good.” After months of adjustments, a matcha-infused version finally wins approval, offering a product that balances authenticity with broader appeal.

The episode also highlights Itoen’s commitment to sustainability. It delves into their efforts to repurpose the 50,000 tonnes of used tea leaves produced annually. A scene at Germany’s Dokomi anime convention showcases a bioplastic Gundam figurine made from tea leaves. The figurines, combined with tastings of the revised Oi Ocha, draw over 1,000 attendees, many of whom are intrigued by the blend of cultural heritage and environmental consciousness. Ogi’s innovative approach to marketing reflects his understanding that storytelling and cultural resonance are as crucial as taste.

Back in Düsseldorf, the revised Oi Ocha finally reaches local shelves. During a public tasting, the reception is overwhelmingly positive. “It’s delicious,” says one participant, while another recognises the brand from her travels in Japan. Ogi’s dedication to adapting the tea while preserving its authenticity begins to pay off. Buoyed by this success, Itoen continues its push to establish a foothold in the European market, confident that their blend of innovation, sustainability, and cultural pride will resonate globally.

This journey offers more than a glimpse into the complexities of global trade. It celebrates the resilience required to bridge cultural divides while creatively addressing environmental challenges. The narrative of Oi Ocha reaching new shores reflects a broader story of how tradition and modernity can unite to create something extraordinary that appeals to all.