It's Lunchtime - Nara

Join us as we continue our “investigation” of people’s meals in various cities. Our first stop is the ancient capital of Nara. It is one of the most well-known historical cities in Japan. It is famous for Todaiji Temple and Nara Park, both of which are popular destinations for school trips. We will explore an area called Naramachi, which is near Nara Park, to find out what the locals eat. 

Naramachi was originally built on part of the premises of Gangoji Temple, which has been around since 718. The temple was listed as a World Heritage Site in 1998. Buildings from the late Edo to early Showa periods still remain in Naramachi today. The old townscape, which has been transformed into a new city, still retains its historical charm. Naramachi, seen as a trendy spot these days, has a nice atmosphere, with various buildings and townhouses which have been renovated since 2011. For example, some of the houses, stores and buildings have preserved their original wooden structures and pillars. The historical buildings are one reason why Naramachi attracts many foreigners. 

We visit a rice cake shop called Nakatanido and get a freshly made mugwort rice cake with sweet bean paste inside. We then meet someone who runs an inn called Makura. We visit the guesthouse, which looks like a townhouse. The building is more than 90 years old and was renovated before the owners started their business. They kept most of its structure and it is thus popular with foreign backpackers who want to stay in a traditional Japanese house. Accommodation starts from 2,500 yen per night.

The next stop is Hanazono Shin Onsen, a public bathhouse established in 1959. We meet Yuji Morita and his wife Ikuta, the second-generation owners. They tell us the Makura inn only has showers and guests who want to take a Japanese bath would come to this public bathhouse. Mr and Mrs Morita show us their lunch, which was gifted to them by a regular customer who comes every day. It is an assortment of delicatessen bread from Hankyu Bakery. They include maple tea bread with Darjeeling tea leaves in the dough, the store’s popular curry doughnut and curry bread. 

We then meet a resident who owns a liquor shop in front of Gangoji Temple. Ogawa Matabei Shoten has been there since 1926. It sells around 120 different types of alcohol, including Nara's local sake and the shop's original sake, Eishun. Twenty years ago, a space was added in the shop for locals and tourists to have a drink. We meet a customer drinking alone and he tells us he used to own a bar but currently works as a caregiver. Tomokazu Michiue is now building a food stall in his garage; it will serve drinks and light snacks.   

Mr Michiue, who lives with his wife and son, agrees to show us his meal at his house. He used to live in the neigbouring district of Kyobate. He closed his bar when he bought this house in Naramachi. He likes cooking and used to cook at his previous bar. For the family meal, he makes pork grilled in sukiyaki sauce, ketchup rice, tofu salad with sesame dressing and seasoned nametake mushrooms.  

We next visit a famous restaurant in a quiet residential area. Called Dining Kitchen Saji, it is located in Koenji, a district of Suginami Ward in Tokyo. It is less than 10 minutes away from Shin-koenji Station by foot. The small and cute restaurant has three tables and five counter seats. It serves dishes using ingredients from Toyama as the owner, Mr Hideo Kikuoka, lived in Toyama Prefecture for nearly 15 years. One of the dishes is the Toyama beef sirloin steak lunchbox costing about 2,000 yen. It comes with a salad and side dishes. It is served with Koshihikari rice and a Japanese-style sauce made with red wine, soy sauce and onions. The meat is tender and by grilling it to medium rare, it brings out the aroma of the meat, as well as the flavour of the fat.

There is another popular dish recommended by the owner that is made with ingredients from Toyama. It has been inspired by Toyama Black, a local speciality ramen from Toyama which is known for its black soup made with dark soy sauce. Mr Kikuoka created a dish made with Himi pasta. The noodle manufacturer that makes Himi udon, a speciality of Toyama, now makes pasta by blending Toyama's flour with durum wheat flour. So Mr Kikuoka uses that pasta and Toyama Black meat sauce, but adds caramel to make the sauce darker than the regular one. He wanted to make a dish as good as Toyama Black so that people in Tokyo would be impressed by ingredients from Toyama.  

Mr Kikuoka graduated from cooking school and worked in the food service industry, travelling around Japan a lot. When he was 48, he started his own business and opened an Italian restaurant in Toyama. His parents used to live in Koenji. After they passed away, their house was vacant and he did not want to sell it. So at the age of 62, he came back to Koenji from Toyama and opened Dining Kitchen Saji in 2013.

We watch Mr Kikuoka preparing his employees’ lunch. One of the dishes is Toyama beef fillet steak. He sprinkles salt on the tendon and grills the meat without greasing the pan. He then simmers it in consomme soup. He adds seaweed and salted Japanese pepper leaves to the kelp- based broth, after which he pours it on cooked somen noodles. He calls the Japanese-style somen noodles with salted Japanese pepper broth Wafu Somenke. 

Another dish he makes is called “Gaia no Yoake”. He stir-fries some garlic and onions in olive oil. Then, he adds minced chicken meat cooked and seasoned with bonito broth, soy sauce and mirin; and tomato sauce made with fresh tomatoes, basil and red wine. He finishes the dish by topping deep-fried bitter gourd with the tomato sauce. 

Tips:

1)    Todaiji Temple and Nara Park are popular destinations for school trips
2)    World Heritage Site Gangoji Temple is a must-see spot in Naramachi