Art revives old community in Bangkok’s historical neighbourhood

BANGKOK: The old pagoda is wet with morning rain. Its weathered surface is covered in green moss and vines, along with visible traces of a bygone era.

Passers-by along Klong Bang Luang – a once teeming canal in Bangkok’s historical neighbourhood – are often drawn to the pagoda in the middle of an old teak house.

It is a sight that invokes an atmosphere of sacredness, a witness to centuries-old history that has evolved around generations of residents along the canal.

Once part of the Kamphaeng Bangchak temple ground, the old pagoda has become an architectural centrepiece of The Artist’s House since it was opened to the public in 2009. 

The space is dedicated to art and offers a platform for artists to create and showcase their work – from paintings to sculptures, woodcut prints and performances. 

Visitors can also enjoy drinks from its small cafe, browse around its shop and gallery, or simply relax in the building and soak up the slow life by the water.

By making art easily accessible to the public, its founders hope the presence of visitors in Klong Bang Luang will breathe life into the declining community and help preserve its traditional way of life along the canal before it vanishes.

“We thought if businesses could be created here, people wouldn’t have to go far to find jobs. They could just stay here and that would be nice,” said Chumpol Akkapantanon, an artist and founder behind The Artist’s House or Ban Silapin, as it is locally known.

In front of him, a silver bird sculpture rests near the base of the pagoda. The contemporary art and remnants of the past stand side by side in a lush green space behind the two-storey teak house, which once belonged to an old family of goldsmiths and traders.

Back in 2007, Chumpol led a renovation project that transformed their dilapidated dwelling into an art space. 

At that time, he recalled, the community was quiet and decrepit. Boats and waterways had been taken over by cars and roads and many residents had left their wooden houses by the canal for new accommodation and careers downtown. 

Those who remained were mostly the elderly, including Prapai Raksamruad, then in her late sixties. She was the last family member to live in the run-down building where The Artist’s House stands today.

“She wanted to sell the house to someone who wouldn’t destroy but restore it,” Chumpol recounted.

“The house was out of shape. Everything was decaying. Nobody would want to buy it and she was living there alone. It was so miserable and depressing. I was thinking how I could help her because selling it would be hard.”

Eventually, a group of his friends bought the house and the artist began the renovation. The idea was to reconnect the enclosed space with the canal and the history of the old neighbourhood, and inspire local residents to preserve and protect their heritage.

For Chumpol, the renovation felt like painting a new picture – one of an old but cosy home where people come to create and appreciate art or simply unwind in the historical community tracing back hundreds of years. 

“People here hadn’t really done any renovation work to their houses back then. They did it just enough to get by because there weren’t so many passers-by in this area. But when we started our renovation, they became interested in doing so as well,” he said.

“THIS IS WHAT KEEPS US BREATHING”

The transformation of Klong Bang Luang took place gradually as The Artist’s House became well-known among tourists from around the world. Small shops, eateries and homestay accommodations have emerged along the canal, which is now part of the boat tour route operated by tourism companies.

“Tourists have started to come here since The Artist’s House opened. They usually come from the Chao Phraya River by boat and make a stop here,” said local resident Suksan Charoenwattanapokaew.

Three generations of his family have lived by the Bang Luang canal. His parents used to row their boat up and down the waterway to sell mango and sticky rice when the area was still a market.

“But time has changed. 7-Elevens and department stores were opened nearby. Many businesses here closed down. Young people, once they grew up, went to work elsewhere,” he told CNA.

Suksan used to be one of them. But as The Artist’s House rose to fame, he decided to leave his job downtown and turned parts of his house across the canal into a “kuay jab” noodle store, where he also sells mango and sticky rice to continue his parents’ business.

For more than a decade, the community of Klong Bang Luang has drawn visitors from across the world. Many of them came to watch rare traditional performances by a troupe of Thai puppeteers by the old pagoda in The Artist’s House, which were free of charge.

The show was so successful that Klong Bang Luang quickly gained popularity among Thais and foreigners who appreciate the cultural and historical value of the community.

The Artist’s House was forced to close temporarily when the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted tourism and social activities. 

The impact was felt across the neighbourhood. The free puppet show was discontinued and relocated to the Kamphaeng Bangchak temple a short walk away. 

For Chumpol, the unexpected hiatus gave him time to refocus and explore new dimensions of the art space that had welcomed visitors every single day for more than a decade. 

He is thinking about creating a new set of puppets – one that is contemporary and unique to The Artist’s House – and continuing to use various forms of art to preserve this historical neighbourhood.

“We tend to focus on building new things and forget about the old,” said Chumpol. 

“If we don’t pay attention to it now, we won’t be able to turn back time.”

Outside, the rain has begun to stop. Two tourists are taking photos of the old pagoda in The Artist’s House, which has already reopened to the public.

“We’re open every day and I think it’s good. This is what keeps us breathing,” Chumpol said.

"Both the community and its residents,” he added.