North Korea reopens to tourists after 5 years, but Pyongyang remains closed

For Nicolas Pasquali, North Korea was the only country left on his checklist – until last Thursday (Feb 20).

The Argentine-Italian was among the first group of Western tourists to enter the hermit kingdom for the first time in five years. North Korea had been closed to foreign tourists since the COVID-19 pandemic.

Beijing-based tour operators are the first to lead groups into the reclusive nation’s Rason Special Economic Zone, which borders Russia and China.

Pasquali told CNA: “I got a phone call saying, ‘Okay, North Korea is open. Are you coming?’ I said: ‘Boom, sure. I already have my backpack, my passport, some money with me’.

“When it’s your last country, you're excited; you're happy; you're emotional.”

The 32-year-old crossed the border from China's Yanji to North Korea’s Rason with 11 other tourists. By doing so, he has now visited every country in the world.

During his four days there, he was shown the special economic zone where there are schools, factories and breweries.

“They were kind of cautious with us, taking care of us. They were concerned about how we were going to behave,” he added.

“So if we did something wrong, (there is a) high chance that they will ban any foreign tourists after us because of this reason.”

Beijing-based tour operator Young Pioneer Tours, which has been taking tourists to North Korea since 2008, also said the itinerary was less flexible and more structured this time round, but that new attractions have been added.

Its marketing director Justin Martell said they visited a so-called traders’ market in Rason which sells mostly foreign products.

“There's also a great place where you can buy local street food from street food vendors, and go to local bars that are within that market as well,” he revealed.

PYONGYANG STILL CLOSED

North Korea remains one of the world's most repressive regimes, with heavy international sanctions lobbed against it due to its nuclear weapons programme.

Tourists must be accompanied by an official guide at all times. Those who behave inappropriately in North Korea’s eyes – such as talking to North Koreans without authorisation – could face fines, arrest or detention.

Russian tourists have been allowed to enter North Korea since February 2024, amid warming ties between Moscow and Pyongyang.

They are also the only ones who can currently enter Pyongyang, which remains closed to all other foreign visitors.

Analysts said the reopening of the capital will send an important signal that the country is more open to the outside world.

“I love North Korea, and I'm happy to go back because we only saw Rason. But what about the rest? I want to go to Pyongyang, I want to explore more about the south. I want to know more,” said Pasquali.

WHAT ABOUT CHINESE TOURISTS?

Chinese authorities have yet given their citizens the green light to enter North Korea, despite earlier reports stating that a Chinese tour operator had started accepting registrations.

A spokesperson from the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs declined to comment on "activities of specific travel agencies" during a regular news conference.

Chinese nationals made up the vast majority of foreign tourists to North Korea before the pandemic. 2019 saw a record high of 350,000 Chinese visitors.

However, relations between Beijing and Pyongyang have become strained due to the Russia-Ukraine war that broke out in 2022. North Korean troops have been sent to aid Russia’s invasion, while China has been trying to project a neutral stance on the war.

Analysts said they believe Chinese tourists will bring important economic benefits to North Korea, but see several obstacles in the way.

“For the past almost two years, the relationship between China and North Korea has deteriorated … There hasn't been any kind of positive sign to getting closer between these two countries, because still, you see North Korea and Russia, they maintain very close cooperation,” said Park Won Gon, a professor in Ehwa Womans University’s Department of North Korean Studies.

He noted that another factor is United States President Donald Trump, who was sworn into the White House last month.

“It totally depends on the relationship between the US and China. If the relationship deteriorates, China has more motivation and more reason to consider North Korea as their important asset,” Park added.

“But we have to think about (the fact) that North Korea is so different compared to 2018 and 2019. They no longer want to have a good relationship with the US and even the Western world.”