How ube became the new matcha, and what it means for farmers when a crop goes viral
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How ube became the new matcha, and what it means for farmers when a crop goes viral
Photo: iStock
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Ube is a purple yam native to the Philippines, traditionally used in Filipino desserts and known for its deep violet colour and subtly sweet, nutty flavour.
Photo: Kalel Demetrio
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Ube’s popularity has spread far beyond the Philippines, making its way into cheesecakes in the United Kingdom, lattes in Paris and doughnuts in New York — echoing the global demand for matcha, quinoa or chia.
Photo: iStock
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But what happens when a humble crop goes global? The story of ube reveals the complex ripple effects of a food trend gone viral.
Photo: Kalel Demetrio
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While demand surges, ube farmers face long growing cycles, labour-intensive work and limited land – making it hard to scale up quickly or safely.
Photo: Kalel Demetrio
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Matcha farmers in Japan face a similar squeeze. Scaling up compromises quality, and production cannot simply be increased without long-term risks.
Photo: d:matcha Kyoto
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For some people who grew up with these foods, watching them become global phenomena has been both affirming and disorienting.
Photo: CNA/Mak Jia Kee
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Ms Nikki Rosales said that ube has always been everywhere in Manila, from jams to breads to ice cream. She is happy that more people now know about ube, but wonders whether global consumers have really developed a genuine taste for the root vegetable.
Photo: iStock